LIBER CURE COCORUMCopied and Edited from the Sloane MS. 1986 by Richard Morris Published for the Philological Society |
Liber cure CocorumA Modern English Translation with Notes, Based on Richard Morris' transcription of 1862. by Cindy Renfrow |
{ Morris' printed transcription was transcribed by David Tallan, david.tallan@mbs.gov.on.ca.
It was proofread by Cindy Renfrow, and additional markup was done by Greg Lindahl. The thorn
character is represend by "Þ" and "þ"; this character is incorrectly rendered by
some Macintosh web browsers. The yough character is represented by "3". Comments by David Tallan
and Cindy Renfrow are enclosed by {} curly brackets.
}
The following curious poem on Cookery is now first printed from a transcript of the Sloane MS. 1986, where it occurs as an appendix to the "Boke of Curtasye"1. It is written in a Northern dialect of the XVth century, probably not much earlier than the time of Henry VI. The author of the poem furnishes us with an appropriate English title in the opening of the work, where he speaks of his subjects as "The Sly3tes of Cure", or, as expressed in more modern English, "The Art of Cookery". Though the poem professes to be somewhat comprehensive, and treats of a great variety of dishes under the titles of Potages, broths, roasted meats, baked meats, sauces and 'petecure', it is still far from containing an account of all the ancient dishes, upon the preparation of which the cooks of old prided themselves so much, as may be seen upon comparing this poem with the tracts upon Old English Cookery contained in Warner's 'Antiquitates Culinariae' and in the 'Collection of Ordinances and Regulations for the government of the Royal Household'.2 Some knowledge of the composition of these dishes is rendered necessary by the constant allusions to them in our early English Metrical Romances, which give the poem an Archaeological as well as Philological value.
PREFACEFrom internal evidence it would seem that the author of this poem was a native of North-West Lancashire, for we find the same pecularities which have been pointed out by Mr. Robson in the Romances edited by him for the Camden Society, viz. the plurals of Nouns in -us and passive participles in -ud, or -ut, to which may be added the forms schyn, schun (= shall) and wyn, wynn, (will) which I have not met with elsewhere. The usual Northumbrian grammatical forms occur, as tas for takes; tone and tother for that one and that other; -s as the ending of all the persons (Singular and Plural) in the Present Tense Indic. Mood, and as the sign of the 2nd Person, Imperative Mood; and -and as the termination of the Present Participle. For all words enclosed in brackets I alone am responsible. No alteration has been made in the text of the MS. without some acknowlegement in a foot-note. July 31, 1862 R.M. |
This translation is based on Liber cure Cocorum, as copied and edited from the Sloane MS. 1986 by Richard Morris, author of "The Etymology of Local Names", member of the Philological Society. Published for the Philological Society by A. Asher & Co., Berlin. 1862. This translation is intended to be read in conjuction with Morris' work, and has left uncorrected many of the errors found in that work. A printable facsimile copy of Morris' text may be found at http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/lcc/ This translation is copyright 2002, Cindy Renfrow. You may use this digitized translation for non-commercial and scholarly purposes only without further permissions, provided that this header is included and proper citation is given.
Introduction
This portion of Sloane MS. 1986, transcribed for us by Richard Morris in Liber cure Cocorum (1862), is a cookery book in verse, written in a Northern English dialect circa 1420 - 1440. While not original or important as a cookery manuscript, in the sense that the recipes may be found in other contemporary collections (such as Thomas Austin's Two Fifteenth Century Cookery Books, the Forme of Cury, and A Noble Boke Off Cookry), the use of dialect and verse make this work quite interesting. LCC is frequently cited as an early source, and often the only source, of many obscure words and dialectical spellings in such reference works as the Oxford English Dictionary and The Electronic Middle English Dictionary. Why did the author trouble to rhyme a cookery book? Did he intend his verses to be a mnemonic aid, since verse is more easily learned than prose? If so, then the intended reader must have been a professional cook with prior experience in preparing the basic recipes, for in many cases our author has sacrificed the length and clarity of his cookery instructions in order to force a rhyme. Similarly, necessary steps or ingredients are omitted and many quaint, meaningless phrases are added, making this work quite difficult to use alone as a cookbook. In translating this work into modern English, I have attempted to remain as true to Morris' transcription as possible. Sadly, due to changes in pronunciation and spelling over time, it has not been possible to clearly express the meaning of the piece and maintain the original rhyme scheme and meter. (For example, "then" rhymes with "bren", but since "bren" has changed to "burn", the rhyme is lost.) The line breaks, punctuation, and (for the most part) capitalization given here follow Morris' transcription, but the word order within each line may have been altered for the sake of clarity. Thorn has been rendered [th]. Yogh has been rendered [3]. Except where noted, all other words found in brackets have been added by me. This translation is intended to be read in conjuction with Morris' work. Therefore the page numbers given in this electronic edition refer to those in Morris' transcription. I have included these so that you may more easily compare this text with his. I have also added the folio numbers of the original manuscript in brackets, to facilitate reference to it. A brief glossary is appended; additional glossary terms may be found at http://www.thousandeggs.com/glossary.html. Morris' glossary is available at http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/lcc/. If all goes as planned, a transcription of Morris' work will appear beside this translated text. I have modified the Table of Contents from the form found in Morris to include recipe numbers, more commonly-found spellings or the name in translation, and a descriptive dish name in this order: Recipe number / Morris' Table of Contents Spelling / More Commonly Found Spelling or Translation / A brief description of the dish / Morris' Page Number. You will note that the Table of Contents begins with Frumenty on page 7, but the recipes actually begin on page 5 with six "recipes" that are not listed in the Table. According to the way Morris has presented the recipes, Frumenty is recipe number 7. In order to reflect this, the Table of Contents has been numbered beginning with number 7. However, it should be noted that recipe #6, presented as one recipe by Morris, is actually two recipes; Frumenty should be #8, and all recipe numbers s over #6 are therefore off by one from their sequence in the MS. (Unfortunately I did not discover this numbering error in time to correct it here. ) And since nothing is ever easy, Roo in a sew is listed in the Table out of sequence, the recipe for Mylke of almonde is missing, Pur verde sawce is not listed, and so forth. Therefore, the recipes in the Table have been numbered sequentially following their appearance in Morris' book. Recipes missing from the Table of Contents have been added in brackets. Of Petecure has been counted as a recipe (#106), since one may follow it as such; but others may argue it is merely a laundry list of potherbs. As a consequence of these corrections, our tally of recipes numbers 135, while others may have counted only 127 recipes. In his introductory paragraph, our author includes a promise to list each of the recipes in a table, and to number them: [th]o names in tabulle I schalle sete He has marked out each new subject in the text with paragraph marks, "¶", and the headings are indented and underlined, leaving sufficient space for the numbers to be written in afterward. But, for whatever reason, these numbers were never added. I have fulfilled his intention by adding recipe numbers to the text. In his transcription, Richard Morris expanded the abbreviations found in the original manuscript, but did not indicate which letters he added. He often wrote "v" where the MS. has "u", and used thorn in many places where the MS. has "th", and so forth. Also, Morris added the punctuation. This occasionally led him into error, as, for example, where he inserted a comma between ote and strey in #133, leading him to gloss strey as strain, when it should be read as "oat straw". (See endnotes.) Many important corrections, found by comparison of the transcription with the original manuscript, have been noted, but many have not due to time constraints. Also, it would be too tedious for the reader if I were to list the hundreds of minor errors found in the transcription. Suffice it to say that Morris' transcription of Liber cure Cocorum, and therefore this translation based upon it, are flawed. I find it disheartening that these mistakes have gone unchallenged and uncorrected for 140 years. I have therefore begun work on a new diplomatic transcription of Liber cure Cocorum based on a copy of B.L. Sloane MS. 1986, and hope to have it, and a translation with in-depth commentary, ready for publication within the next year. The numbering error noted above will be corrected in this new edition. Cindy Renfrow, 2002.
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[Page 1, not numbered] Now speak I will a little more [folio 27]
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Incipit tabula cure, primo, de potagiis:-
Jam finitur tab[u]la per manus ut vocabula complete testantur. |
Here begins the table of cookery, first, the pottages: -- [left-hand column] 7. Pur Furmente / For Frumenty / Cracked-wheat pudding garnished with candy comfits ...7 8. Amydoune / Amidon / Wheat starch ...7 9. Conyngus in grave / Coneys (young rabbits) in gravy ...8 10. Chekyns in cretene / Chickens in cretoneé / Chickens in thickened, spiced, milk-based sauce ...8 11. Vyande de cypur / Meat of Cyprus / Parboiled capon or hen, pounded small, mixed with thickened almond milk, and spiced ...8 12. Mortrews de chare / Mortrews of flesh / A thick pottage of ground hen and pork ...9 13. Blanke maunger / / Rice cooked in almond milk with teased chicken flesh ...9 14. [Th]andon for swannus, wylde gese and pyggus / Chaudwyne [entrails] for swans, wild geese and pigs / Entrails of swans, chopped small, and cooked in spiced broth ...9 [right-hand column] 15. Nombuls / Numbles / Entrails in ale sauce with cinnamon ...10 16. Ano[th]er maner of nombuls / Another manner of numbles / Entrails of venison in ale sauce...10 17. Charlet de force / Seasoned Charlette / Pottage of pork with egg curds ...11 18. For charlet icoloured / For colored charlette / Spiced almond pottage with pine nuts, garnished with candied anise ...11 19. Iussell / Jussell or Guissell / Herb stuffing ...11 20. Bruet de almonde / Broth of almonds / Spiced thickened almond milk, served with boiled partridges and chickens ...12 21. Blanke de sorre / Blandissorye / Pottage of chicken and rice, garnished with fried almonds ...12 22. Bucnade / Bukenade / Thick almond milk pottage enriched with pork fat and spices ...12 23. Rosse / Rose / Spiced pottage of chicken and thickened almond milk, dyed red ...13 [Page 2, left-hand column] 24. Letlardus / Leche lardes or Larded milk / Egg curds, pressed, sliced, and fried ...13 25. For blanched mortrews / For white mortrews / Thick pottage with hens, pork, almond milk, and ginger ...13 26. Peions istued / Stewed Pigeons / Pigeons stewed with garlic and herbs ...14 27. Sowpes dorre / Glazed Sops / Toast with spiced almond milk and wine sauce ...14 28. Gruel of almonde / Gruel of almonds / Pottage of almonds and oatmeal, colored with saffron ...14 29. Joutes of almonde / Joutes of almonds / Herbs with sweetened almond milk ...14 30. Caudelle of almonde / Caudle of almonds / Almond milk spiced with wine, ginger, sugar, and saffron ...15 31. Buttur of mylke of almonde / Butter of milk of almonds / Almond butter ...15 Mylke of almonde[This recipe is missing from the text.]5 32. Rise / Rice / Rice cooked in almond milk, garnished with fried almonds ...16 33. Caudel Ferre / Caudel Ferry / Thickened spiced almond milk garnished with whole mace blades ...16 34. For to make a rape / Rapeye / A spiced pottage with currants ...16 35. Mylke rostyd / Roasted Milk / Fried sliced curds ...17 36. For to make a potage of welkys / For to make a pottage of whelks / Pottage of chopped whelks in a thickened milk sauce with ...17 37. For to make potage of oysturs / For to make pottage of oysters / Pottage of chopped oysters with almond milk and onions ...17 38. Sauge Seynes / Sage Seynes / Pig's feet in sage sauce ...18 39. For to make a compost / For to make a compote / Chicken stewed in herbs, honey, and broth ...18 54. Roo in a sew / Venison in a broth / Venison cooked in herbs and wine, colored red with sandalwood ...23 [Note: this is listed out of sequence.] 40. Blanke maunger of fysshe / Blancmange of fish / Boiled tench or lamprey, with rice and almond milk ...19 41. Mortrews of fysshe / Mortrews of fish / Thick pottage of fish roe and livers ...19 42. For to make rose de almayne6 / For to make rose of Germany / White peas in almond milk with saffron ...19 43. For a kolys / For a cullis / Broth of chicken thickened with oat groats ...20 44. Gruel of Porke / Gruel of Pork / Pottage of ground pork mixed with egg yolks and spices ...20 45. Conyngus in cyne / Coneys (young rabbits) in onion sauce ...20 46. Harus in cyne / Hares in onion sauce ...21 47. Harus in a sewe / Hares in a broth / Hares in a broth made of pan drippings and breadcrumbs ...21 48. Harus in albrotetus / Hares in a broth / Hares cooked with almond milk and onions ...21 49. Harus in a pardolyce / Hares in a pardolyce / Hares in egg-thickened broth served atop wafers ...22 [fol. 28] 50. Hennes in a browet / Hens in a broth / Hens boiled with pork, seasoned with ale and cumin ...22 51. Chekens in browet [MS. - Chekens in [th]o broth.] / Chickens in broth / Chickens stuffed with grapes, cooked in broth with saffron ...22 52. Chekens in [th]o brothe [MS. - Chekens in caudell.] / Chickens in the broth / Chickens in thickened broth with ginger, rue, and saffron ...23 53. For to boyle fesawntes and pertrykes / For to boil pheasants and partridges / Pheasants and partridges boiled in spicy ale sauce ... 23 [54. Roo in a Sewe follows this recipe in the text.] 55. Hennes in gravé / Hens in gravy / Hens roasted and fried, ground to paste with wine or vinegar, and thickened with egg yolks ...24 [Page 2, right-hand column] 56. Capons in covuse7 / Boiled capons in a thickened broth, mixed with chopped egg white, and garnished with whole cooked egg yolks ...24 57. Hennes in gauncel / Hens in [sauce] gauncely / Roasted hens in a thickened milk-based sauce with garlic ...24 58. Lamprays in browet / Lampreys in broth / Lampreys roasted and served with a pepper and saffron sauce ...25 59. Lamprays in galantine / Lampreys in [sauce] galentine / Roasted lampreys served with spicy galantine sauce ...25 60. For tenches in grave / For tenches in gravy / Tench, boiled and then roasted on a griddle, served with ale sauce ...25 61. Chawdewyne de boyce / Chaundron [entrails] of the woods / A dish of nuts cooked in almond milk, garnished with fried nuts ...25 [#62. Capons in Cassolyce follows this recipe in the text.] 63. For to make momene / For to make malmeny / Capons in spicy syrup ...26 64. Lange de boef / Tongues of beef / Ox tongue, boiled, larded, studded with cloves and roasted, endored with egg yolk, and served with a spicy broth thickened with blood ...26 [Introductory paragraph Pro Salsamentis.--To make sawce, and recipe #65. Pur verde sawce, follow recipe #64 in the text.] 66. Sauce for maulardys rostedde / Sauce for roasted mallards / Onion sauce with ale, mustard and honey ...27 67. Sawce for wele and venyson / Sauce for veal and venison / Thickened vinegar sauce with ginger and pepper ...28 68. Blaunche sawce for capons / White sauce for capons / Almond sauce with ginger ...28 69. Sawce best for capons rostedde / Best Sauce for roasted capons / Liver sauce with anise and spices ...28 70. Sawce syrer for mawdelardys / Sauce syrer for mallards / Thickened vinegar sauce with ginger ...28 71. Gawncel for [th]e gose / [Sauce] Gauncely for the goose / Thickened milk sauce with garlic ...29 72. Sawce for swannes, cranes, and herons / Sauce for swans, cranes, and herons / Spicy giblet sauce for swans ...29 [In the text this is two recipes, #72. Sawce for swannus is followed by #73. [Sawce] For cranys and herons.] 74. For pekokes and pertrykes / For peacocks and partridges / Roasted peacocks and partridges with spicy bread sauce ...29 75. Galentine / Thickened vinegar sauce with galingale and ginger ...30 76. Sawce comelyne, kervelettes and o[th]er [th]yngis / Sauce cameline, kervelettes and other things / Vinegar sauce with currants, nuts, and spices ...30 77. For lumbardis mustard / For lombardy mustard / Thick mustard sauce ...30 78. For Pyculle / For Pickle / Sauce made of wine, mustard, onions and pan drippings ...31 79. Filettes in Galentine / Fillets in [Sauce] Galentine / Pork fillets half-roasted and finished in a spiced vinegar sauce ...31 80. Piggus in sawce / Pigs in sauce / Boiled suckling pigs served with thick herb sauce ...31 81. Sawce Madame / Sauce Madame / Herb-stuffed roasted goose with spiced herb and wine sauce ...32 82. Gose in Hogge pot / Goose in Hotch-pot / Goose boiled with wine, herbs, and onions ...32 83. For to save venyson fresshe over [th]e [3]er / To save venison fresh over the year / Venison preserved in honey ...33 84. To save venysone fro restyng / To save venison from becoming rancid / How to salt venison ...33 85. To keep herbis over [th]o wyntur / To keep herbs over the winter / Herbs dried in pastry coffins ...34 86. For lyour best / For the best thickening / Baked flour used to thicken sauces, etc. [ In the text this is followed by an introductory paragraph to roasted foods, De cibis assatis.]...34 [Page 3, left-hand column] 87. For [th]e crane / For the crane / Roasted crane ...35 [#88. For heroun rostyd follows this recipe in the text.] 89. For wodcock, snyte, and curlu / For woodcock, snipe, and curlew / How to roast all manner of birds ...35 90. For pygges farsed / For stuffed pigs / Stuffed roasted suckling pigs ...36 91. For franche mele / For franchemyle / Haggis served sliced and broiled...36 92. For bouris / For bowres / Salt-cured pork or goose ...37 93. For pome dorres / For pome-dorry / Pork meatballs, boiled, roasted, and glazed with colored batter ...37 94. Hastelettes on fysshe dayes / Haslets on fish days / Dried fruits and nuts, skewered, and batter-roasted to resemble entrails ...37 [This is followed in the text by an introductory paragraph to bake-meats.] 95. For lamprayes / For lampreys / Baked lampreys with spices, wine, and dates ...38 96. For dareals / For darioles / Spiced almond custard tart with diced duck and blanched almond garnish ...38 97. For flawnes / For tarts / Baked cheese pies with saffron ...39 98. For custon [MS. - For costons.] / For crustades / Pork pie thickened with eggs, garnished with an egg yolk "knob"...39 99. For rysshens / For rissoles / Ground pork encased in raised dough and fried ...39 100. For freture / For fritters / Apple fritters ...39 101. Crustate of flesshe / Crustade of flesh / Pie filled with boiled chickens, pigeons and other birds, currants and spices, and thickened with eggs ...40 102. Loysens / Lozenges / Noodles boiled in broth, served with cheese and spices ...40 103. Tartelettes / Tartlets / Pork pies with currants ...41 104. Chewetes on fysshe dayes / Chewets on fish days / Fried fish and fruit pies, served with sugar and wine ...41 105. Chewettes on flesshe da[yes] / Chewets on flesh days / Fried pies filled with hen, pork liver, cooked egg yolks, and ginger ...41 [This is followed by an introduction to petecure[small cookery], that contains a pottage recipe, #106.] 107. For stondande fignade / For thick figgy / Fig pudding ...42 108. For a surupe / For a syrup [allows of beef] / Rolls of thinly-sliced beef, stuffed and roasted, served sliced with thick onion gravy ...43 109. For a tusken / For a tusken / Pork meatballs cooked in herb broth with saffron ...44 110. For blanchet porray / For white porray / Leeks cooked in almond milk ...44 111. Porray of white pese / Porray of white peas / White peas cooked to mush with onions and ale, served with bread croutons ...44 112. For white pese after porray / For white peas after porray / White peas cooked with honey and onions, served with either whale, sturgeon, or porpoise, or with bacon ...45 113. For gray pese / For gray peas / Gray peas with bacon ...46 [Page 3, right-hand column] 114. For cole / For cabbage / Cabbage and parsley boiled in meat broth with groats, served with salt pork and gravy ...46 115. For mustul bree / For mussel broth / Mussels cooked with onions and saffron, served with thickened broth ...46 116. For porray of mustuls / For porray of mussels / Ground mussels served with porray of leeks and groats ...47 117. For gruelle of fors / For seasoned gruel / Oat groats cooked with pork and saffron, served with chopped pork ...47 118. For Ioutes / For Joutes / Herb pottage served with meat ...47 119. For capons in herbes / For capons in herbs / Capon, and pudding of capon's neck, simmered with herbs and bacon ...48 120. For o[th]er Ioutes / For other Ioutes / Cabbage cooked in beef broth ...48 121. For honge cole / For hung cabbage / Boiled cabbage served with butter ...49 122. For hennes in brothe / For hens in broth / Hen's flesh cooked in thickened spiced broth, served with hard-cooked egg yolks ...49 123. For a comyne sewe / For a cumin broth / Veal, pork, and mutton simmered with onions and saffron, served in a broth thickened with brown bread ...49 124. For tansay cake / For tansy cake / A fritter of eggs with tansy juice, served with meat or haggis ...50 125. For a froyse / For a fritter / An egg fritter with pork, veal, or trout ...50 126. For a brothe of elys / For a broth of eels / Eel broth with saffron ...50 127. For a pye / For a pie / An elaborate pie filled with beef, capon, woodcocks, mallard, dates, currants, and hard-cooked egg yolks ...51 128. For a cawdalle / For a caudle / A thick drink of egg yolks slowly cooked in ale ...51 129. For sawce gynger / For ginger sauce ...52 130. For wesels / For wesels / Batter-coated puddings of capon's neck, or pig's stomach, with pork filling ...52 131. For a hagese / For a haggis / Sheep's heart and kidneys, cooked with herbs ...52 132. For seke menne / For sick men / Four recipes: Ale broth; water gruel; milksops; and sugared sops ...53 133. For to sethe ray / For to seethe ray / Ray boiled in ale, and served with a sauce of liver and garlic ...53 134. Oysturs in brewette / Oysters in broth / Oysters cooked in ale and broth, with saffron ...53 For a service on fyssh day / For a service on fish day / A fish day menu ...54 [This is followed in the text by For a servise on flesshe day, a flesh day menu.] For ano[th]er maner of service apon a flesshe day / For another manner of service upon a flesh day / Another flesh day menu ...54 For a comyn rewle in cure / For a common rule in cookery ...55 Now ends by hand the table of names as you can perfectly attest.
[Page break. There is no Page 4. ] [Page 5, not numbered] |
Now sly3tes of cure wylle I preche, |
1. Now arts of cookery will I preach, 8 [fol. 29]
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Anoþer sotelté I wylle telle. |
2. Another sotelty I will tell.
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And 3if7 anoþer I telle con; |
3. And if11 another I can tell;
[ Page 6 ] |
To make venegur manede; |
4. To make vinegar in a need 13; Take a goad of steel I know indeed;
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To preve venegur, weþer hit be fyne. |
5. To prove vinegar, whether it is fine. You take his knife or else mine,
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To powder befe with in a ny3t |
6. To salt beef within a night, You boil the salt, in water bright;
[ Page 7 ] |
Take wete and pyke hit fayre [and clene] |
Take wheat, and pick it fair [and clean - Added by Richard Morris]
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Take wete and stepe hit dayes ix; |
Take wheat and steep it 9 days;
[ Page 8 ] |
Sethe welle þy conyngus in water clere, |
Seethe well your coneys in clear water,
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Take cow mylke, lye hit anone |
10. Chickens in cretoneé. Take cow's milk, mix it anon
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Take braunne of capons or hennes þou shalle; |
Take flesh of capons or hens you shall;
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Take hennes and fresshe porke, y þe kenne, |
12. Mortrews of flesh. Take hens and fresh pork, I teach you,
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Take ryse and loke þou wasshe hom clene, |
Take rice and look you wash them clean,
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Þandon for wylde digges, swannus, and piggus. Take, wasshe þo isues of swannes anon, |
14. Chaudron [Entrails] for wild ducks, swans, and pigs. Take, wash the entrails of swans anon,
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Take þo hert and þo mydruv and þe kydnere, |
Take the heart and the suet and the kidneys,
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Take þe noumbuls of þe veneson, |
16. Another manner for numbles [entrails]. Take the entrails of the venison,
[ Page 11 ] |
Take swettest mylke, þat þou may have, |
17. Charlet.25A
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Take almondes unblanchyd, wasshe hom and grynd; |
Take unblanched almonds, wash them and grind;
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Take myud13 bred, and eyren þou swynge14, |
19. Iussell. Take grated bread, and eggs you beat;
[ Page 12 ] |
Take gode almonde mylke anon, |
Take good almond milk anon,
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Take ryse and wasshe hom in a cup, |
21. Blonk desore.28 [fol. 33] Take rice and wash them in a cup,
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Take almonde mylke as I con preche; |
22. Bucnade.27A Take almond milk as I can preach;
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Take flour of ryse, as whyte as sylke, |
Take flour of rice, as white as silk,
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Lede lardes18 [Leche lardes]. Take eyren and swete mylke of a cow, |
24. Larded Milk.28A Take eggs and sweet milk of a cow,
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Sethe hennes and porke, þat is fulle fresshe; |
Seethe hens and pork, that are quite fresh;
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Take peions and hew hom in morselle smalle, |
Take pigeons and hew them in morsels small,
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Take almondes, bray hem, wryng hom up; |
Take almonds, pound them, wring them up;31
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Take almondes unblanchid and bray hom sone, |
Take unblanched almonds and pound them soon,
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Take erbe, perboyle hom, fayre and wele; |
Take herbs, parboil them, fair and well;
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Take almondes unblanchyd and hom þou bray; |
Take unblanched almonds and you pound them;
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Take thykke mylke of almondes clere, |
Take thick milk of almonds clear33,
[ Page 16 ] |
Take ryse and wasshe and grynde hem smalle, |
Take rice and wash and grind them small,
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Take almondes unblanchyd, so have þou cele, |
Take unblanched almonds, so have you bliss,
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Take raysyns of corauns þerto, |
Take dried currants thereto,
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Take swete mylke and put in panne, |
Take sweet milk and put in [a] pan,
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For to make a potage of welkes. Take welkes and wasshe fayre, in blythe, |
36. For to make a pottage of whelks. Take whelks and wash clean, in mirth,
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For to make a potage of oysturs. Perboyle þyn oysturs and take hom oute; |
37. For to make pottage of oysters. Parboil your oysters and take them out;
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Take swynes fete and sethe hom clene, |
38. Sage Seynes. 39A Take swine's feet and seethe them clean,
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Take þo chekyns and hew hom for þo seke, |
39. For to make a compote.40 Take the chickens and hew them for the soak41,
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Take a pownde of ryse and sethe hom wele, |
Take a pound of rice and seethe them well,
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Take þo kelkes25 of fysshe anon, |
Take the roe of fish anon,
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Take whyte pese and wasshe hom wele, |
42. For to make rose of Germany.42 Take white peas and wash them well,
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Þe brawne take of sothun henne or chekyne, |
The flesh take of seethed hen or chicken,
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Take brawne of swyne, perboyle hit wele, |
Take flesh of swine, parboil it well,
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Smyte þe conyngus in pese smalle; |
Smite the coneys in small pieces;
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Perboyle þe hare and larde hit wele, |
Parboil the hare and lard it well,
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Alle rawe þo hare schalle hacked be, |
All raw the hare shall hackéd be,
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Hew smalle þy hare in gobetus gode, |
48. Hares in a broth.45A Hew small your hares in gobbets good,
[ Page 22 ] |
Take harys and perboyle hom, I rede, |
49. Hares in Perdoylyse.47 Take hares and parboil them, I advise,
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With porke þou sethe þo henne fatte, |
With pork you seethe the fat hens,
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Take chekyns, scalde hom fayre and clene; |
Take chickens, scald them fair and clean;
[ Page 23 ] |
In broth þou boyle þy chekyns gode; |
In broth you boil your chickens good;
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For to boyle fesawantes and pertryks. Take good brothe, þerin þou pyt |
53. For to boil pheasants and partridges. Take good broth, therein you put
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Take þo roo, pyke hit clene forthy; |
Take the venison, pick it clean therefore;
[ Page 24 ] |
Take hennes and rost, as I þe kenne, |
Take hens and roast, as I teach you,
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Take capons and sethe hom wele, |
56. Capons in Covisye.55 Take capons and seethe them well,
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Take first and rost welle þy henne, |
57. Hens in [Sauce] gauncely. Take first and roast well your hen,
[ Page 25 ] |
Lamprayes in browet. Take lamprayes and scalde hom by kynde, |
Take lampreys and scald them by kind,
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Take lamprayes and hom let blode |
59. Lampreys in [sauce] galentine. Take lampreys and them let bleed
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Sethe þy tenchis, and after hom brede, |
Seethe your tenches, and after[ward] spread them [out],57
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Take smalle notes, schale not35 kurnele, |
61. Entrails of the woods. [A dish of nuts.]59 Take small nuts, shell [the] nut kernels,
[ Page 26 ] |
Take capons and schalde and pyke hom þen; |
62. Capons in Cassolyce.60 [How to turn one Capon into two.] Take capons and scald and pick them then;
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Take whyte wyne, I telle þe, |
Take white wine, I tell you,
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Take þo ox tonge and schalle hit wele, |
Take the ox tongue and skin it well,
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Pro Salsamentis. - To make sawce. Now speke I wylle of sauces sere: |
Pro Salsamentis.-- To make sauce. [fol. 41] Now speak I will of sundry sauces:
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Pur verde sawce. Take persole, peletre an oyns, and grynde, |
Take parsley, wild thyme an ounce 64, and grind,
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Take onyons and hew hom wele, |
66. Sauce for roasted Mallards. Take onions and hew them well,
[ Page 28 ] |
Take brede and frye hit in grece þou schalle, |
67. Sauce for veal and venison. Take bread and fry it in grease you shall,
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Take blanchid almondis and smal hom grynde, |
Take blanched almonds and grind them small,
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Take lyver of capons and rost hom wele, |
69. Best Sauce for roasted capons. Take liver of capons and roast them well,
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Take bred and blode iboylyd and grynde, |
Take bread and boiled blood and grind,
[ Page 29 ] |
Take garlek and grynde hit wele forþy, |
71. [Sauce] Gauncely for the goose. Take garlic and grind it well therefore,
|
Take þo offal and þo lyver of þo swan, |
Take the offal and the liver of the swan,
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[Sawce] For cranys and herons. The crane is enarmed ful wele I wot |
73. [Sauce] For cranes and herons. The crane is larded quite well I know
|
[Sawce] For pekokys and pertrikis. Pekokys and pertrikys perboylyd schyn be, |
74. [Sauce] For peacocks and partridges. Peacocks and partridges shall be parboiled,
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Take crust of brede and grynde hit smalle, |
75. [Sauce] Galentine. Take crust of bread and grind it small,
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Sawce camelyne, kervelettes and oþer thyngus. Take raysouns of corouns and kyrnels smalle |
76. Sauce cameline, kervelettes69 and other things. Take dried currants and small kernels
|
Take mustarde and let hit drye |
Take mustard and let it dry
|
Take droppyng of capone rostyd wele |
Take drippings of capon roasted well
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Take filetes of porke and half hom rost, |
79. Fillets in Galentine. Take fillets of pork and half-roast them,
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Take pigges and scalde hom in water clene, |
Take pigs and scald them in clean water,
[ Page 32 ] |
Take sawge, persoly, ysope, saveray, |
Take sage, parsley, hyssop, savory,
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In pesis þou schalle þy gose stryke, |
In pieces you shall strike your goose,
[ Page 33 ] |
To save venysone fresshe over þe 3er. Yf þou wylle kepe þe tayle of a dere |
83. To save venison fresh over the year.73 If you will keep the tail [end] of a deer
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For to save venysone fro restyng42. Take venesone when hit is new slayn, |
84. For to save venison from becoming rancid.74 Take venison when it is newly slain,
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Take floure and rere þo cofyns44 fyne, |
85. To keep herbs over the winter. Take flour and then raise fine coffins,
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Take drye floure, in cofyne hit close, |
86. For [the] best thickening.76 Take dry flour, in coffin it close,
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De Cibis assatis. Of rostyd mete now speke I wolde, |
De cibis assatis.[Of roasted food] Of roasted meat now would I speak,
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Þe crane schalle fyrst enarmed be, |
The crane shall first be larded,77
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For heroun rostyd. Þe heroun is slayn, as I have sene; |
The heron is slain, as I have seen;
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For wodcock, sny3t and curlue. To wodcok, snype, curlue also, |
89. For woodcock, snipe and curlew. To woodcock, snipe, curlew also,
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Take swongen50 eyrene and floure þer to, |
Take beaten eggs and flour thereto,
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Take swongene50 eyrene in bassyne clene, |
91. For fraunche mele. [Haggis.] Take beaten eggs in basin clean,
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Take porke and gese, hew hom þou schalle |
92. For bours.81A Take pork and geese, hew them you shall
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Take porke and grynde hit rawe, I kenne, |
93. For powme dorrys. [Glazed meatballs.] Take pork and grind it raw, I teach,
|
Take fyggus quartle, and raysyns, þo |
94. [Mock] Entrails on fish day.82 Take figs quartered, and raisins, then
[ Page 38 ] Here ends our roasted meat that I [have] spoken of;
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Fyrst scalde þy lamprays fayre and wele, |
First scald your lampreys fair and well,
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Take creme of almonde mylke iwys, |
Take cream of almond milk truly,
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Take new chese and grynde hit fayre, |
Take new cheese and grind it fair,
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Grynde porke, brek eyren þer to anon, |
98. For crustades. Grind pork, break eggs thereto anon,
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Take grounden porke þat soþun hase bene |
99. For rissoles. Take ground pork that has been seethed
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Wih egges and floure in batere þou make, |
With eggs and flour in batter you make,
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Take peiuns and smalle chekuns with alle |
Take pigeons and small chickens withal
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In erthen pot put brothe for hast; |
102. Lozenges.88 In earthen pot put broth for haste;
[ Page 41 ] |
Take porke sothun, and grynde hit wele |
Take seethed pork, and grind it well
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Take turbut, haddok, and gode codlyng, |
Take turbot, haddock, and good codling,
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Take lyver of porke and kerve hit smalle. |
Take liver of pork and carve it small,
Here ends our cookery, that I [have] spoken of,
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Explicit hic quartus passus. Of petecure I wylle preche; |
Here unfolds the fourth passage.
106. Of small cookery I will preach;94
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Fyrst play61 þy water with hony and salt, |
107. For thick fignade [fig pudding]. First boil your water with honey and salt,
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Take befe and sklice hit fayre and thynne, |
108. For syrup. [Allows of beef.] Take beef and slice it fair and thin,
[ Page 44 ] |
Take raw porke and hew hit smalle, |
Take raw pork and hew it small,
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Take thykke mylke of almondes dere |
Take thick milk of almonds dear
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Take white pese and wasshe hom wele; |
Take white peas and wash them well;
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Take boyled water wyth honey swete, |
112. For white peas after porray.98 Take boiled water with honey sweet,
[ Page 46 ] |
Fyrst stepe þy pese over þe ny3t, |
First steep your peas over the night,
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Take fresshe brothe of motene clene, |
Take fresh broth of mutton clean,
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Fyrst sethe þy mustuls quyl shel of lepe |
First seethe your mussels until [the] shell[s] falls off102
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Take mustul brothe, as I say þe, |
Take mussel broth, as I say [to] you, [fol. 52]
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Fyrst take porke, wele þou hit sethe |
First take pork, you seethe it well
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Take most of cole, borage65, persyl, |
118. For Ioutes. [Potherbs - a medicinal recipe]104 Take most of cabbage, borage105, parsley,
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Fyrst stop þy capone with saveray, |
First stuff your capon with savory,
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Take cole and strype hom þorowghe þi honde |
120. For other ioutes. Take cabbage and strip them through your hand
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Hakke þy kole wel grete I trow, |
121. For hung cabbage.111 Hack your cabbage in large pieces I believe,
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Take, sethe þy henne and kut her wele |
Take, seethe your hen and cut her well
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3iff þou wylle make a comyne sew, |
123. For cumin broth. 112A If you will make a cumin broth,
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Breke egges in bassyn and swyng hem sone, |
124. For a tansy cake. [Caution! See note.113] Break eggs in [a] basin and beat them soon,
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Sethe porke or vele and hew hit smalle, |
125. For a fritter.115 Seethe pork or veal and hew it small,
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Fyrst flyghe þyn elys, in pese hom smyte, |
First flay your eels, smite them in pieces, [fol. 54]
[ Page 51 ] |
Fyrst sly þy capon over þo ny3ght, |
First slay your capon over the night,
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Breke ten egges in cup fulle fayre, |
Break ten eggs in cup quite fair,
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Fyrst stepe þy brede, þat white is bake, |
First steep your bread, that white is baked,
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Fyrst grynd porke, temper in fere |
130. For wesels.118 First grind pork, mix together
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Þe hert of schepe, þe nere71 þou take, |
131. For haggis.119 The heart of sheep, the kidneys you take,
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Ale bre72 þus make þou schalle, |
132. For sick men.122 Ale broth thus make you shall,
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Take ote, strey and draghe hit clene, |
Take oat straw and draghe123 clean it,
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Take and schole hom and sethe hom in clene water; |
Take and shell them and seethe them in clean water;
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For a servise on a fysshe day. Fyrst white pese and porray þou take, |
For a service on fish day.124 First white peas and porray you take,
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For a servise on flesshe day. Fyrst wortes and salt befe þou shalle have, |
For a service on flesh day.128 First pot-herbs and salt beef you shall have,
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For anoþer maner of service on flesshe day. Take fyrst grete pyes and frumenté |
For another manner of service on flesh day.130 Take first great pies and frumenty
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For a comyn rewle in cure.
Now tas þys for a rewle fulle gode, Explicit Liber cure Cocorum |
Now take this for a very good rule,
The Book of the arts of Cookery is unfolded. |
Index of Words, Dishes, &c. |
Glossary (Numbers in parentheses refer to the recipe number.) |
{ Please note: There are some errors in these definitions. Please consult
Cindy Renfrow's translation for details. The numbers in the index below are
page numbers in the facsimile.
Some of them have been linked back to the
recipies, some have not. Again, {} curly brackets surround comments by
David Tallan. -- greg }
A, 6, 'and'. |
abulle = able, with the meaning of strong or powerful. (#70) a[3]ayne = expressing position in front of, facing, opposite to, etc. (#102) albrotetus, abrotet = a broth. (#48) ale bre = aleberry (alebrey, alebery, alebrue, alemeat) = ale broth, a type of warm caudle. (#132) alron = also alleron(e), from O.Fr. aleron, the tip of the wing. (#122) alye = ally = to mix, to combine, to thicken. Also allay = to dilute. Alyed = mixed, combined, thickened, diluted. From O.Fr. alier and Latin alligare, meaning to bind, this word came to have many confused meanings. In medieval cookery, where alye is used and flour or bread (or rice flour, egg yolks, amidon, groats, etc.) are mentioned, it is to be understood that the mixture is being thickened by mixing with that substance. Where a binding agent is not mentioned, alye may be taken simply to mean mix. Where alye is used of liquids, we are diluting them. To alye is a complex process of mixing, stirring, and often thickening, that is not easily expressed in a single word. I have given it here as "to mix" or "to bind", but please understand that alye involves a number of steps that depended on the lyoure (thickening mixture) being used. For example, to alye with bread, one first soaks the bread in broth or vinegar until it achieves a gummy, almost-gelatinous consistency; this mixture is then strained smooth and added to boiling broth. Egg yolks, on the other hand, require beating with cooled broth before being added slowly to a hotter broth; the mixture is then stirred until thickened, but must never be allowed to boil or the eggs will clot. These steps were well known to medieval cooks, so a simple "alye it with floure" was sufficient instruction. Compare with temper. (#18, 52, 57, 86, 107, 108, 109, 110, 112, 113, 115, 117, 123, 126). alyoure, alioure = a mixture, a thickening for sauces (#45, 72, 123). See also lyoure. amang = among. (#114) amidon = wheat starch (from Lat. amylum). Amidon was used for thickening, and as white food coloring. (#8, 9, 10, 11, 20, 22, 33, 36, 37, 62) a myle way = the length of time it takes to walk a mile = 20 minutes at 3 miles per hour (Eng. Dial. Soc. #3, Satchell's glossary). (#31) annes icomfet = anise in comfit, candied anise seeds. (#18) any kyn = anykyn(s) = any kind or sort. any kyn way = any way of perceiving. apayr = to satisfy, to please. (#103) assay = (n) a taste test, especially one to check for poison. At the lord's table, this was primarily the job of the Sewer. The Butler assayed the wine. The Cook assayed the meat before it was covered by the Sewer and brought to the hall. (See the Boke of Curtasye, Wynkyn de Worde's Boke of Keruynge, Iohn Russell's Boke of Nurture, etc. for the officers of the court and their responsibilities.) (#128) assay = (v) to try. (#3) at a word = at once, without more ado. (#36) augrym, augrim = algorism = the Arabic system of numeration. The word comes from the Arabic al-Khowarazmi, the surname of a 9th century Arab mathematician. (TC) avans = an herb, Wood Avens, Herb Bennet, Geum urbanum. (#106, 118) |
Batere, 38, 52, 'a batter'. |
bakun mete, bakyn mete = bake-meat = pies or pastries filled with meat, fish, cheese, custard, etc. (p.1, 94, 105, rule) barke = to form a bark, to encrust. (#6) batte = hasty. (#50) be dene, bydene = anon, by and by. A nonsense word employed to fill the meter and rhyme. belle = to boil or bubble, from the Middle Dutch bellen, or a bubble from O.E. belle. (#99) bere = ibere = to cry, scream, or roar. (#4) berme = barme = barm, a liquid yeast solution skimmed from the top of fermenting ale or beer. (#99, 100) be syde, besyde = by the side (of), to one side, apart. (#12, 20, 61, 115, 118, 119, 122) be skylle = by right. This is another nonsense phrase. (menu 3) betore = a bird, the bittern, Botaurus stellaris. (#89) blonc, blaunche, blanchyd, blaunchyd = white. (#13, 21, 25, 68, 110) blonde, blynde, blend = blonde is a transcription error; the MS. says blende, meaning to mix. (#57, 90, 124) blythe = happiness, mirth, cheerfulness, delight; a nonsense word. (#36, 38, 90) bray = to pound or crush, usually with a pestle in a mortar. bre = broth (#17, 113, 115, 120). Ale bre (#132) is a type of caudle. brede can mean bread, but it has many other meanings, including to roast, to broil, or to toast, to spread out or to extend (#60), and to cover. broche = (n) a spit (#34, 90, 94); (v) to pierce (#64) browet = broth. (#50, 51, 58, 60, 134) bruys = broth. (#39) brys, brysse, brisse = to bruise, to crush, to bray (from O.E. brysan, O. Fr. brise). (#8, 112, 119) by kynde = a nonsense phrase used to rhyme with grynde. It is not a cookery instruction. (#48, 58, 65, 70) |
Canel, 26, 'cinnamon'. |
cawdel, caudel = caudle, a thick warm drink made with wine or ale, spices and sugar, or a sauce made the same way. (#30, 33, 52, 128, menu 3) cele = bliss, joy, happiness. A nonsense word used to provide a rhyme. charge = to thicken. (#11, 12, 13, 23) charioure = a serving platter, a charger. (#46) chargyd = thickened. (#23) chekyns, chekns, chekuns, chykyns = chickens. (#10, 20, 39, 43, 51, 52, 101) chewetes, chewettes = chewets are small fried pies made with chopped meat or fish and fruit. (#104, 105) clake = to clack, to chatter. (# 94, menu 2) cle = literally "a claw" = a hoof, or one of the parts of a cloven hoof. (#90) clene = clean. Often used as a nonsense word to provide a rhyme. clere = clear = clean, bright, having pure color, shining. clovyn = past ppl. of to cleave = split in half lengthwise. (# 38, 127) conyng, conyngys = young rabbits. (#9, 45, De cibis assatis) cormorant = a large black seabird, Phalacrocorax carbo, noted for being voracious. (#89) couch, cowche = to place, to put. (#101, 133) cralle, cralled = to curl, to twist; curled, twisted. (#87, 88, 89) cretene = a kind of seasoned soup, pottage, or sauce containing milk; chickens (and rabbits, etc.) were cooked in the sauce. Other spellings include cretone, cretoyne, critone, cretonné [O. Fr.], craytoun, crytayne, crotoun, creteyne. (#10) cure = cury = cookery (p. 1, #105, rule). Also found in petecure, small cookery. curlew = a bird, Numenius arquata. (#89) custanes, custons = crustades = open meat or poultry pies thickened with eggs and often mixed with broth or milk. (#98, 101, menu 3) cyne = cyve, a form of civy or civey = a sauce containing onions. (#45, 46) |
Dariels, 38. |
darials, daryels = darioles = custard tarts. Our recipe uses almond cream in place of cow's cream. (# 94, 96, menu 3) devoyde, devoyded = devoid = to remove, to get rid of, to take away; removed, taken away (#88, 111) digges = ducks. (#14) disware, diswayre = doubt. "Withouten disware" is a nonsense phrase. (#60, 115, 128) divers = to diversify, to vary, to add variety to. (#61) do = to put, to place or to add. dore = endore = from O. Fr. endorer, to gild, to glaze with egg yolk, saffron, etc. (#127, 130) dowce, douce = (adj.) sweet (#44); (v) to sweeten (#7, 107). See also powder douce. draghe = a mixture of grains, such as oats and barley, that have been sown together in one field. (#133) drau[3]e, draw, draw[3]e = to strain, to pass a mixture through a strainer (#28, 32, 45, 48, 67, 70, 74, 75, 79, 123, 129). Directions to draw ground almonds with water, wine, or broth through a strainer are instructions to make almond milk (#29, 30, 33). dra[3]un = drawn in the sense of gutted, as in this case where the intestines of the birds have been removed. (#87, 89) dubene, enbene = to baste, to steep , from embainen,( also found as enbanen, enbanden, enbenen), from O.Fr. baigner (e-MED) (#26, 62) |
Elys (broth of), 50. |
eke = also, too, in addition. (#14, 39, 43, 45, 105, 123, menu 3) enarm = to lard or garnish with bacon. (#73) enbande = to cut in thin slices. Likely a corruption from Fr. barder. (#12) enbene, dubene = to baste, to steep , from embainen,( also found as enbanen, enbanden, enbenen), from O.Fr. baigner (e-MED) (#26, 62) enbroche, enbrochyd = to skewer or broach on a spit; skewered or broached. (De cibis assatis, # 93, 108) endore = see dore. enoynt can mean anoint, (to smear with oil or to moisten with any substance), but in this case is a misspelling of enioynt, meaning joined together. (#90) |
Farse, 26, 'to stuff'. |
fars, farse, fors = to force, to stuff (with), to cram full (of). (#32, 62, 77, 90) farsure = a stuffing mixture (#62) fele, fole = foil, meaning a thin layer or leaf. In medieval cookery the word meant a sheet of dough or pastry. (#101, 102, 103) fesawnt(es) = a bird, the pheasant, Phasianus colchicus. See also werkock. (#53, 89) fignade = a thick fig pudding. (#107, menu 1) flawn = from the Latin fladonem, literally a flat cake or pancake. These are baked tarts, filled with custard or cheese. (#97) florysshe = to flourish, to garnish, to decorate. (#11, 12, 18, 20, 21, 22, 27, 33, 96, 107, 119) flyghe = to flay, to pull off the skin of an animal. (#126) for ony nede = of necessity. (#13) fors, enfors, forsyd = to season or spice. (#9, 10, 15, 20, 22, 23, 64, 79, 96, 117) foules, fowles, foles, fuylle = fowl. (# 89, de cibis assatis, rule) fre = free, freely, unrestrained, unstinting. For the most part it is used here as a nonsense word. (#21, 33, 51, 53, 56, 57, 84, 95, 116) frym = soluble. (#1, see note #9.) furmente, frumenty = a common dish of boiled wheat typically served with venison or porpoise. The name comes from the Latin word for grain, frumentum. (#6, 7, menu 3) |
Gad, 6, 'a goad'. |
galentine = a spicy sauce found in many recipe collections. The ingredients vary so much that no one ingredient appears in all sources. The ingredients found most often are dark or toasted bread, vinegar, and cinnamon. For more on galentine, see Constance B. Hieatt's article, "Of Pike (and Pork) Wallowing in Galentine", in Fish, Food from the Waters. Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery, 1997. Totnes, Devon: Prospect Books, 1998, pp. 150-159. ISBN: 0907325890. (# 59, 75, 79,menu 1, menu 3) gar = to make. (#31) gauncel, gauncely = a milk-based sauce containing garlic. (#57, 71) gentloré = gentlehood, gentleship, the quality of being a gentleman, the character associated with being of gentle birth. (#89) [3]er, [3]ere = year. (#83, 86) gode tyde evyne = Good Tide Eve refers either to Christmas Eve or to Shrove Tuesday. (In this case it refers to the latter.) (#92) graynys = grains of paradise, a spice related to cardamom, Amomum Meleguetta. (#95, 127) grappays = grapeys = "Royal Fish, as Sturgeon or Whale, but applied also to other fish" (TFCCB, p. 131). Grappois (Fr.), craspois or graspeis (O.Fr.) from Latin crassus piscis (fat fish). The Grampus, a cetacean, Grampus griseus, resembling a dolphin but without a snout. Grampus also means whale meat. (#112) grotene, grotis, grote(s) = groats = crushed hulled grain, especially oats, but also wheat and barley. (#43, 114, 116, 117, 118, 132) grys, gryce = (sing. and pl.) pork, suckling pig. (#130, menu 2, menu 3) |
Hagese, 52. |
hagese = haggis. (#131) halde, haldand = to hold, holding. (#39, 93) hasteler, hastler = the officer of the kitchen who was responsible for the roasting of meats. The word comes from the O. Fr. for to roast, haster. Hastery is the art of roasting meats. (p. 1, 94) helde = to pour (from A.S. hyldan, meaning to "incline, bend, & so, pour", Furnivall, notes, cxxxv). (#52, 101) heroun = (sing. and pl.), a long-legged wading bird, the heron, genus Ardea. (#73, 88, 89) hogge pot = hotchpot, hodgepot, hodge-podge, etc. = a stew made of various ingredients. (#82) holden = pa. ppl. of to hold. In this usage it means to hold a belief, to consider, etc. (#37) honestly = fittingly, properly. (#89) |
Ilkadele, 41, 'each part'. |
inou[3]e = enough as in "done", "cooked enough". (#17) Ioutus = a pottage or soup made primarily of vegetables or pot-herbs. The word is also found in other sources spelled Jowtis, Joutes, Iowtes , Ioutus, Joutes, Owtes, Eowtes, Jowtes, Jouts, Iouute.(#118, 120) isues = issues = entrails. (#14) itwen = to divide. (#119) Iusselle is also found spelled Iuschelle, Iussell, Jussel, Jossel, Jossle, Juselle, Gusschelle, and Guissell. The name comes from O. Fr. jussel, meaning juice or broth, and derives from Latin juscellum, meaning soup. Some recipes contain fish roe; some, like this one, use flavored breadcrumbs mixed with eggs. The mixture is poured into boiling broth and stirred until it comes together as a mass. This is then taken up and served. (#19) |
Kaudel Ferry, 16. |
kelkes = the roe of a fish. (#41) kenne = to impart knowledge of, to teach. kolys = cullis = a strong broth including strained boiled meat, fit for a sick person. (#43) kostyf = breast or ribcage, from Latin costa = rib. (De cibis assatis) koyntes = quaintise, skill, cleverness, elegance. (#89) kremelyd = crumbled, from O.E. crymelen. (#91) |
Lamprayes (in galentine), 35. |
larde = (n) pork fat (#22, 24, 39, 64, 73); (v) to insert strips of fat into lean flesh before cooking (#46, 62, 74). laveroc = the skylark, Alauda arvensis. (#89) lay = In #9 it means to mix; see alye and lyoure. In all other instances it means to lay or to place. leche = (n) a slice (#24, 112, 124); a sliced dish (#24); (v) to slice, to cut. (#24, 35, 91) lecus, leke(s), heke (scribal error) = leeks, Allium Porrum. (#39, 110, 116) lesyng = from lease = picking or gleaning (# 7, 85, 104, 111, 124); lying or deceiving (#105). lite, litelle, litel, lytul, lytel, lytil, lytelle = little. lite = little, few. (#114, 116) lovache = an herb, lovage, Levisticum officinale. "The whole plant and every part of it smelling strong and aromatically, and is of a hot, sharp, biting taste". (Culpeper, p. 177.) The herb is described as warming and helpful to digestion. Ingestion of this plant may bring on menstruation. (#39) loyseyns = lozenges = a diamond-shape (#103). loysyns, loseyns = in #102 the lozenges are broad flat noodles. In other sources the word sometimes refers to fried pastries. luddock = the loin or buttock. (#108) lue = warm, lukewarm, tepid. (#84) lycour = an error for lyour(e), a form of lear, meaning a thickening for sauces. (#8) lye = to mix, to bind. See also alye. (#7, 10, 11,12, 20, 22, 33, 36,37, 44, 55, 82, 122) lyoure = a form of lear, meaning a mixture, or a thickening for sauces. Our recipe #86 is a thickening made of baked flour. These thickening mixtures were also made with bread, bread mixed with blood, etc. (#79, 82). See also alyoure. |
Male, 12, 'meal'. |
manchete = manchet, fine white bread, paindemaine. (#132) Martyn messe = Martinmas, the Feast of St. Martin, November 11th. (#92) maystré = mastery, the skillful application of the rules of cookery. (#25) mawdelardus = mallards, a type of duck. (#66, 70, 96, 127, menu 3) mener menne = meaner men are men of lesser social status or of low birth. (#7) meke = meek, gentle; sometimes used as a nonsense word. (#43, 45, 88, 123, menu 3) mele = medley, mixture. (#6) mete = a dish of food. mete = meet, as in suitable, fit, and proper. (#25) mete = meat. (p.1, #1, 6, 11, 61, 77, 86, De Cibis assatis, 92, 94, 105, 118, 124, For a comyn rewle in cure) mortrews = a pottage noted for being thick. The name comes from the mortar in which the ingredients are pounded. (#12, 25, 41, menu 3) mot or mote = a note played on a horn or bugle (#73). Mot also means "may" in the phrase "so mot I [th]e" (so may I thrive, #6, 113, menu 2, menu 3), and "must" in the phrase "nede [th]ou mot" (needs thou must, #7), and so forth. motone = mutton. (De cibis assatis, 114, 123, menu 2) moun = an obsolete form of may. (#113) mydruv = Morris' misreading of mydrun, meaning the fat surrounding the entrails of an animal, midgern, or leaf-lard or suet. It can also mean the bowel or gut. This word is sometimes used by confusion with midriff. (#15) myed, myude, myud, myyd = grated, crumbled. (#9, 11, 12, 14, 19, 21, 65, 91, 119, 128) mys = to err. (#44) |
Neghe, 42, 'near'. |
nesshe = soft, tender, from A.S. hnæsce, hnesce(#25). As a nonsense phrase "for harde or nesshe", literally "for hard or soft", but figuratively meaning "under any circumstances", "no matter what" (#83). never a dele = never a deal, none. (#113) nones = one of the canonical hours, the ninth hour after sunrise, midway between noon and sunset. (#49) nou[3]t, no[3]t = naught or nought (meaning nothing), or not. (#5, 26, 55, 93, 106, 113, 129,131) |
Obles, 22, 'small cakes'. |
obles = obleys = from O. Fr. oublee and Latin oblata, an offering. Obleys are sacramental wafers or small flat cakes of pastry made of fine flour. Obleys and wafers are substituted for noodles in #49. osel = ouzel, birds of the genus Turdus, such as the blackbird, T. merula.(#89) |
Pasteler, 1, 'a maker of pastry'. |
paindemaine = finest white bread. (#74, 102) pasteler, pastler = the pastry cook. (p. 1) peletre, pellitory = an herb. The name usually refers to Anacyclus Pyrethrum (Pellitory of Spain), or to Parietaria officinalis (Pellitory of the Wall), both medicinal herbs. In this case it refers to Wild Thyme (Thymus serpyllum) or to Garden Thyme (T. vulgaris); see note 64. (#65) pertrykes = partridges. (#20, 53, 74, 89) petecure = small cookery, or cookery on a small scale, from O. Fr. petit keuerie. (p. 1, #106) play, playd, playand = to boil, boiled, boiling. (#7, 93, 107, 109, 132) plump = to drop or plunge into water. (#127) porray, porry = porray = (from Latin porrum = leek) a soupy dish of vegetables typically including leeks, and sometimes fish or shellfish, cooked in almond milk or broth, and thickened.. (#106, 110, 111, 112, 116, menu 1) posnet = a small cooking pot having a handle and three feet. (#14, 81) potager = the vegetable cook who was also responsible for the pottages. (p. 1) powder, poudert = to salt, salted. Salting was used as a method of preservation. (#6) Powder is also used as a noun to mean powdered spices. powder douce = a mixture of sweet spices. (#44, 51, 53, 81, 101, 102) powme dorrys, pomme dorre = pome-dorry, meatballs glazed with batter, egg-yolks, etc. (#93, menu 3) prymrol = primerole. This is most likely the primrose (Primula veris), although the name was applied to other plants, such as the cowslip. (#106, 118) pur = for. (#65) |
Quartle, 37, 'a quart'. |
quibibis = cubebs. A spice, Piper Cubeba L. Cubebs are sold as small dried black berries with stems; the flavor is a cross between black pepper and allspice. (#34, 127) |
Rape (A), 16. |
raysyns of corauns = literally, raisins of currants = dried currants. (#34, 76, 101, 103, 127) rede = the color red. (#18, 27, 34, 93, 95, 106, 118) rede = to advise. (#21, 27, 49, 60, De cibis assatis) ren = to run, to flow. (#1) renne = to curdle. (#31) restyng = becoming rancid. (#84) rewarde = an extra dish, an additional portion of food, especially bread. (#80, 102) risshens, rysshene = rissoles = meat, fish, or fruit encased in dough or batter and fried. (# 99, menu 3) roll = to wrap with or to enfold in something (#95). To turn over and over (#111, 113). To form into a mass by turning over and over (#108, 109) roller = a wrapper made of dough (#99). Also a rolling pin (#102) roo = a small European deer. (#54) ryng = the rim. (#85) |
Safroun, 53. |
sauce vert , sawce versance = green sauce. (#65, menu 1) saunders = red sandalwood, Pterocarpus santa-linus, used as red food coloring. This is not the white sandalwood commonly used as incense. (#23, 54) saveray = savory = any herbs of the genus Satureia, especially S. montana (Winter Savory), and S. hortensis (Summer Savory). (#81, 85, 106, 109, 119, 131) schalle, schyn(e), schun(e), schyn(e), schalt, schal = shall, ought (to). schalle = (v) to skin or to peel (#64). schale, schole = (v) to remove husks or shells (#61, 134); (n) a shell or husk (#76) se[3]e = to assay, to try. (#5) sethe = to seethe, to boil, to simmer, to soak or steep, or to fry in oil, depending on the recipe. sele = good. (#112) sere = separately (#9,89); sundry (#86, 103, Pro salsamentis). sesounabulle = seasonable = savory, tasty. (#70) sete = to put, to set (p. 1); seated (#10); wholesome (#112). sethyn, sethyne = then (#46, 127) seyn, sye = to seine or to strain. (#8, 35, 43, 47) shene = sheen = beautiful and fair, shining, clean and pure. Shrovetide = Quinquagesima Sunday, and Shrove Monday and Tuesday (the day before Ash Wednesday). shyves = slivers (#132) sklyset , sklices = slices (#118, 119); sklice, sklyce = to slice (#108) skymmet = skimmed; in this instance the butter has been cleaned of impurities, and possibly clarified. (#124) sleck = slake = to cool with water or other
liquid, to quench. (#4)
soak , seke = the liquid or vat in which something is steeped. (#39) sollar, selor = also solaror solier, a loft or attic at the top of the house or other structure, used sometimes as a storeroom or drying room. Sollers were sometimes built to let in light and air. This word is easily confused with cellar. (#84) sorel = sorrel, the name of several herbs belonging to the genera Rumex and Oxalis that were eaten in salads and sauces, and esteemed for their sour taste. (menu 2) sothyn, sothyne = seethed, boiled. (#2, 72) sparlyng, sperlyng = a small fish identified by Cotgrave as O. Fr. esperlan, the smelt (Mayhew & Skeat, p. 212). Osmerus eperlanus.(#99) spelle = to talk. (#6) spendes = to serve food. (#77) spryng, spryngil = to sprinkle. (#7, 102) spylle = to kill, to destroy. (#3) staf-ful = crammed full, very full, or full to the brim. (#84) stomper = to pound in a mortar, from stamper, a pestle (#77) stondand = thick, not runny in consistency (#25, 80, 107); standing upright (#85); not moving (#44). stop(e) = to plug up or cover an opening in a container (#84); to cram full (#85); to stuff with fruit or seasoning prior to cooking (#51, 119). strene = in an egg, the stringy white umbilicus. In our recipe for caudle (#128), this is being removed to ensure a smooth consistency. suande = [from sue (To accompany something) or suant (following, with connotations of being pleasing) ?] Also even, regular, kindly, from O. Fr. suant (Britten, p. 69). (#89) swan = a well-known bird, genus Cygnus. (#14, 72) swyng, swynge = to beat (#17, 19, 24, 35, 101, 124, 128) swongen(e) = beaten (#49, 90, 91, 93, 99, 109, 125). seyn = strained (#47).
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Tansy cake, 50. |
tansy = an herb, Tanacetum vulgare, used medicinally as a stomachic, and to provide a bitter flavor. This herb contains a toxic oil that may prove fatal if ingested in large quantites. (#124) tas, tase = to take. (p. 1, rule) temper = to mix; to blend together in the proper proportions; to moisten, to steep, or to dissolve. (#13, 14, 16, 18, 21, 25, 27, 32, 33, 38, 41, 47, 48, 50, 56, 60, 65, 68, 69, 71,74, 75, 76, 80, 93, 109, 112, 119, 127, 130, 134) tench = large freshwater fish, Tinca vulgaris, or Cyprinus tinca, related to the carp. (#40, 60) tenderons = young tender shoots of a plant. (#85) [th]andon = a transcription error, the MS. says "Chandon". Chandon = chawdron, entrails (#14) [th]o = the, then, when. [th]ore = there. (#115) tome = toom = empty, vacant. (#99) to myd = to-mid = into the midst (#39) to[th]er = that other. (rule) town-cresses = Garden Cress, Lepidium sativum. (#106) towne = that one. (rule) trendel = to roll. (#111, 113) tuel = tewel = an opening or vent in a piecrust lid that allows steam to escape. (#95) |
Ughe, 33, 'to injure'. |
ughe, ug = to fill with disgust or loathing. (#84) |
Venysone (to save fresshe over þe 3er), 33. |
venegur = vinegar. (#4, 5, 14, 31, 38, 45, 48, 55, 65, 67, 70, 74, 75, 76, 77, 79, 80, 129) veneson(e), venyson(e) = venison, formerly applied to the flesh of any game animal, but now used only of deer meat. (#16, 67, 83, 84, menu 3) verde = green. (#65) verius = verjuice, the sour juice of unripe fruit. (#26, 68, 69, 101, 127, 129) |
Wafrons, 22, 'cakes'. |
wallande = likely a scribal error for wellande, boiling (#127). wastel = fine white bread. (#12, 128) well, welle, walle, wallande, wellyd = to boil , boiling, boiled. (#3, 5, 6, 14, 17, 23, 35, 40, 41, 45, 46, 57, 58, 64, 82, 127, 128); wellyd = boiled or (of milk) possibly coagulated (#132); wene = ween = to think, to consider, to believe. Often used in the phrase "I ween" to provide a rhyme. werkock = a bird, a male pheasant, Phasianus colchicus. (#89) withal, with alle = therewith, with that. wodcok = a bird, the woodcock, Scolopax rusticula. (#87, 89, 127, rule) wondur = exceedingly, very. (#23, 48, 54, 69) wortes, wortis = a general term meaning herbs, vegetables, pot-herbs, or any member of the cabbage family. (# 106, 114, menu 2) wryng = to wring through a cloth. (#27, 124) wrythe = to wring or twist. (#119) |
3et, 1, 'also'. Note to page 5, line 23:-- "And welle on alle, and lepe in." The sense would seem to require that we should read:-- "And welle on alle, and no3t kepe in."
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ylkadel, ilkadel = completely, every bit or part. (#56, 103) adele = a portion or part (#11). ysope = an herb, hyssop, Hyssopus officinalis. (#54, 81, 109, 119)
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Sources Consulted & (Abbreviations Used): Adamson, Melitta Weiss, ed. "The Games Cooks Play: Non-Sense Recipes and Practical Jokes in Medieval Literature" in Food in the Middle Ages: A Book of Essays," New York/London: Garland Publishing Inc., 1995, pp. 177-195. (Adamson ) Austin, Thomas, ed. Two Fifteenth-Century Cookery Books. Harleian MS. 279 (ab. 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with Extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS 553, & Douce MS. 55.Published for the Early English Text Society by the Oxford University Press, London, 1888. Reprint. Kraus Reprint, 1988. (TFCCB ) British Library Royal Ms. 8.B.iv., folio 72v. (Found in Curye on Inglyssh, p. 148.) (Royal Ms. 8.B.iv. ) British Library Sloane MS. 1986, folios 12-56v, containing the Boke of Curtasye and Liber cure Cocorum. (The MS. ) Britten, James. Old Country and Farming Words: Gleaned from Agricultural Books. London. Published for the English Dialect Society by Trübner & Co., 57 & 59, Ludgate Hill. 1880. (Britten) Baugh, Albert C., ed. Chaucer's Major Poetry. Prentice-Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey, 1963. The Compact Edition of the Oxford English Dictionary.Oxford University Press, New York, 1971. (C.O.E.D.) Culpeper, Nicholas. Culpeper's Complete Herbal.Chartwell Books, New Jersey, 1985. (Culpeper ) Davis, Norman, ed. Sweet's Anglo-Saxon Primer. Ninth ed. Oxford at the Clarendon Press, 1953. The Electronic Middle English Dictionary, http://ets.umdl.umich.edu/m/med/, October, 2002. (e-MED ) English Dialect Society. [#1] Nos. 27-28, 30-31. Glossary of Words in use in Cornwall... (1880); Antrim and Down...(1880); Leicestershire Words... (1881); [and containing Old Country and Farming Words, by James Britten, 1880]. London: Trübner & Co. Reprinted in one volume by Kraus Reprint Ltd., Vaduz, 1965. (Eng. Dial. #1 ) English Dialect Society. [#2] Nos. 47-48, 52, 54. Containing Provincial Names and Folk Lore of British Birds, by the Rev. Charles Swainson... (1885); Four Dialect Words. Clem, Lake, Nesh, and Oss... by Thomas Hallam, (1885); A Glossary of Words used in South-West Lincolnshire... (1886); A Dictionary of the Kentish Dialect... (1887). London: Trübner & Co. Reprinted in one volume by Kraus Reprint Ltd., Vaduz, 1965. (Eng. Dial. #2 ) English Dialect Society. [#3] Nos. 18, 19. Containing Provincial Names and Folk Lore of British Birds, by the Rev. Charles Swainson... (1885), Miscellanies I. On the Survival of Early English Words in our Present Dialects, by Rev. Richard Morris (1875-6), II. On the Dialects of Monmouthshire, Herefordshire, Worcestershire...with a New Classification of the English Dialects, by Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte (1876), An Early English Hymn to the Virgin, by F. J. Furnivall (1880), George Eliot's use of Dialect, by William E.A. Axon, (1881), An Older Form of the Treatyse of Fysshynge wyth an angle, attributed to Dame Juliana Barnes, by Thomas Satchell (1883); A Word-list illustrating the correspondence of Modern English with Anglo-French Vowel-sounds, by B.M. Skeat (1884); Four Dialect Words. Clem, Lake, Nesh, and Oss... by Thomas Hallam, (1885). London: Trübner & Co. Bound together in one volume. (Eng. Dial. #3 ) Faccioli, Emilio , ed. Arte della cucina. Libri di ricette, testi sopra lo scalco, il trinciante e i vini dal XIV als XIX secolo. A cura di Emilio Faccioli. Vol. I. Milano 1966. (Faccioli) Furnivall, Frederick J., M.A., ed. The Babees Book, Aristotle's ABC, Urbanitatis, Stans Puer ad Mensam, The Lytille Childrenes Lytil Boke, The Bokes of Nurture of Hugh Rhodes and Iohn Russell, Wynkyn de Worde's Boke of Keruynge, The Booke of Demeanor, The Boke of Curtasye, Seager's Schoole of Vertue, &c. &c. with some French & Latin Poems on like Subjects, and some Forewords on Education in Early England.Trinity Hall, Cambridge. Reprinted by Rowland Digital Printing, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, 1997. E.E.T.S. O.S. 32. (Furnivall) Gerard, John. The Herball or Generall Historie of Plantes. Gathered by John Gerarde of London Master in Chirvrgerie. Very much Enlarged and Amended by Thomas Johnson Citizen and Apothecarye of London. London. Printed by Adam Islip Joice Norton and Richard Whitakers, Anno 1633. Reprinted by Dover Publications, New York, 1975. (Gerard ) Hieatt, Constance B. "Of Pike (and Pork) Wallowing in Galentine", in Fish, Food from the Waters. Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery, 1997. Totnes, Devon: Prospect Books, 1998, pp. 150-159. Hieatt, Constance B., and Sharon Butler, eds. Curye on Inglysch, English Culinary Manuscripts of the Fourteenth Century (Including The Forme of Cury).Published for the Early English Text Society by the Oxford University Press, London, 1985. E.E.T.S. SS. 8. (Contains Douce MS. 257.) (CoI ) Hieatt, Constance B. "Sources of, and Analogues to, the Noble Boke of Cokery", Journal of the Early Book Society, Issue 3, 2000, pp. 119-135. (Sources ) Hieatt, Constance B. and Robin F. Jones. "Two Anglo-Norman Culinary Collections Edited from British Library Manuscripts Additional 32085 and Royal 12.C.xii", Speculum, Vol. 61, Issue 4 (Oct., 1986), pp. 859-882. (Hieatt & Jones ) Liber cure Cocorum(in general). (LCC ) Mayhew, Rev. A.L., and Rev. Walter W. Skeat. A Concise Dictionary of Middle English from A.D. 1150 to 1580. Oxford, at the Clarendon Press, 1888. (Mayhew & Skeat) Morris, Richard. Liber cure Cocorum. Copied and edited from the Sloane MS. 1986, by Richard Morris, author of "The Etymology of Local Names", member of the Philological Society. Published for the Philological Society by A. Asher & Co., Berlin. 1862. http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/lcc/ (Morris) Napier, Mrs. Alexander, ed. A Noble Boke Off Cookry ffor a Prynce Houssolde or Eny Other Estately Houssolde.Reprinted verbatim from a rare MS. in the Holkham Collection. London: Elliot Stock, 62, Paternoster Row, E.C. 1882. This MS. is dated to shortly after 1467 by the editor. (NBoC ) Pegge, Samuel. The Forme of Cury, A Roll of Ancient English Cookery, Compiled, about A.D. 1390, by the Master-Cooks of King Richard II, Presented afterwards to Queen Elizabeth, by Edward Lord Stafford, And now in the Possession of Gustavus Brander, Esq. Illustrated with Notes, And a copious Index, or Glossary... London, Printed by J. Nichols, Printer to the Society of Antiquaries. 1780. (Contains Douce MS. 257.) http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/foc/ (FoC ) Power, Eileen. The Goodman of Paris (Le Ménagier de Paris), A Treatise on Moral and Domestic Economy by A Citizen of Paris(c. 1393). George Routledge & Sons, LTD. Broadway House, Carter Lane, London. 1928. (Power) Rickert, Edith, and L.J. Naylor. The Babees' Book, Medieval Manners for the Young, done into modern English from Dr. Furnivall's texts by Edith Rickert. Orig. publ. 1908 (?) and reprinted by Cooper Square Publ., New York, 1966. http://www.yorku.ca/inpar/babees_rickert.pdf (Rickert ) Sass, Lorna J. "A Critical Edition of the Fourme of Cury: Culinary Vocabulary in Late Middle English." Doctoral dissertation, Columbia University, 1979. (Sass) Thorndike, Lynn. A History of Magic and Experimental Science During the First Thirteen Centuries of Our Era.Vol. 2. New York: Macmillan, 1923. Found cited in Adamson (see above). (Thorndike ) Warner, Richard. A Collection of the Ordinances and Regulations for the Government of the Royal Household made in Divers Reigns from King Edward III to King William and Queen Mary, also Receipts in Ancient Cookery. Printed for the Society of London Antiquaries by John Nichols. 1790. Contains "Ancient Cookery", Arundel MS. 334 (mislabelled #344). (Warner ) Welserin, Sabina. Das Kochbuch der Sabina Welserin. (c. 1553.) Translated into English by Valoise Armstrong in "Sabina Welser's Cookbook", published by the translator, Little Rock, Arkansas, 1998. (Welserin ) Wright, Thomas, Esq. Dictionary of Obsolete and Provincial English, containing Words from the English Writers Previous to the Nineteenth Century which are no longer in use, or are not used in the same sense. And words which are now used only in Provincial Dialects. In Two Volumes. London: George Bell and Sons, York Street, Covent Garden. 1880. (Wright )
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Endnotes
* "And welle on alle and lepe in." The sense would seem to require that we should read:-- "and welle on alle, and no3t kepe in." |
Notes
1. The Table of Contents is missing seven recipes from the beginning of the text. These are:
2. Page 1. Introductory paragraph. Line 5, "[Th]is hasteler, pasteler, and potagere". A hasteler or hastler, was the officer of the kitchen who was responsible for the roasting of meats. A pasteler or pastler was the man who made pies and pasties. A potager was the vegetable cook, who was also responsible for the pottages. 3. Page 1. Introductory paragraph. Line 8, "[Th]o poyntes of cure, al by rawe". Morris glosses "by rawe" as "in rotation", but rawe, in this case, is a dialectical spelling of row, in the sense of a "class or category". The author is saying he will explain to us the points of cookery by categories, beginning with pottages. 4. Page 1. Paragraph 1, "augrym" = algorism, the Arabic system of numeration. The word comes from the Arabic al-Khowarazmi, the surname of a 9th century Arab mathematician. Despite this promise to number each of the recipes, the author failed do so. 5. Almond milk is called for in a number of our recipes, but the recipe for it is missing. This recipe for Almond Milk is from TFCCB (p. 7): xj. Froyde almoundys. Take blake sugre, an cold water, an do hem to in a fayre potte, an let hem boyle to-gedere, an salt it an skeme it clene, an let it kele; [th]an take almaundys, an blawnche hem clene, an stampe hem, an draw hem, with [th]e sugre water thikke y-now, in-to a fayre vessel: an [yf] [th]e mylke be no[3]t swete y-now, take whyte sugre an caste [th]er-to. 6. The MS. gives this as "For to make pese de Almayne". Rose is a transcription error by Morris; de Almayne is a scribal error. The corresponding dish in NBoC (pp. 111-2) is correctly titled "pessen de Almondes", peas with almonds. 7. Page 2. #56. "Capons in convuse" is called "Capons in Covisye" in the text, but the MS. actually says "Counse / Conisye". 8. Page 5. Paragraph 1. This, and the next two "recipes" are practical jokes. According to Adamson, these are similar to recipes found in German and Latin collections. The desired effect in this one is to make cooked meat appear to be raw. (See recipe #23 Rose, where this powder may be being used to dye the dish red.) 9 Page 5. Paragraph 1. Line 7, "Hit is so frym, ren hit wylle". Morris glosses frym as "strong", but the C.O.E.D. gives several meanings: vigorous, flourishing; juicy; abundant, rich; or easily melting, soluble. It is this last definition that fits the usage of the blood powder best, and agrees with the next line, "And melt as sugar". The blood powder will dissolve and run as sugar does when it is melted. 10. Page 5. Paragraph 2, Line 3, "In brede of stoe, thou cut hom [th]enne". The e-MED conjectures that stoe is a scribal error for stre; in fact it is a transcription error. The passage means "in [the] breadth of [a] straw, you cut them then". (The expression "a straw's breadth" can be found in other 15th-century texts, and strey is used to mean straw in recipe #133.) These are directions to cut bowel or gut into thin slices, the width of a piece of straw. These false "worms" are then cast upon cooked fish or meat before service, so that the dish will appear wormy. Thorndike (cited in Adamson, p. 184), says that the heat of the dish makes the "worms" move. A recipe for "worms" made from extruded pea mush appears in Welserin (recipe #40). 11. Page 5. Paragraph 3, Line 1, "and [3]if ano[th]er I telle con". Morris questions whether the second word is [3]if or [3]it. The former is correct. This is a particularly nasty passage telling how to revenge oneself on a bad cook. We add soap to the pot to make it boil over, and feed deadly henbane seeds to the hens and ducks. (Henbane is poisonous. Do not use it.) Similar recipes cited by Adamson use vitriol, mercury, or saltpetre to make the pot boil over. 12. Page 5. Paragraph 3, Line 2. The MS. has "foward", not "soward". 13. Page 6. #4. To make venegur manede. "Manede" is a transcription error; the MS. says "in a nede" (in a need). The letters i, u, n, v, and m are often run together as a series of vertical lines, making it difficult to distinguish one letter from another. 14. Page 6. #4. To make venegur manede. Lines 4 and 5, "A bere with [th]e hete hit [th]ou may, And in goode wyne sleck hit I say". One definition of bere or ibere is to cry or roar. This would give us the rough translation "make the red-hot steel goad to cry out or scream by quenching it in the vinegar". If you have ever worked with a forge, you will recognize this as the sound made when red-hot metal is quenched in water. 15. Page 6. #4. To make venegur manede. Lines 8 and 9 describe another method of making vinegar by using beans soaked in vinegar to sour good wine. 16. Page 6. #4. To make venegur manede. Line 9, "turne to venegur be dene". The word be dene, bydene, etc., occurs repeatedly throughout the manuscript. According to the C.O.E.D. it occurs often in M. E. poetry to fill the measure and to provide a rhyme, as it does here. For the most part it means "anon", or "by and by", etc., and should be considered to have no value as a cookery instruction in these recipes. 16b. Page 6. #5. To preve venegur... Line 2, "In harde drye flore a hole to make;" Phil Troy suggests: "The word flore could mean flour that has been adulterated by a dishonest miller with ground chalk, since vinegar mixed with ordinary flour does not undergo the acid/base reaction being described in the recipe. Alternately, the word might literally mean floor, not flour, and we are being instructed to dig a small hole in our limed stone floor, hence the instructions to use someone else's knife! When you pour good (a.k.a. acidic) vinegar into the hole, it wells up, while if the vinegar is bad (a.k.a. of a near-neutral pH), it will just soak in and sink down through the floor." 17. Page 6. #5. To preve venegur... Line 6, "[Th]is se[3]e I preved..." Se[3]eis an obsolete form of "to say", with the meaning in this instance being "to assay, test or try". 18. Page 6. #6. To powder befe with in a ny[3]t. Lines 4 and 5, "And in a ny[3]t hit poudert schalle be, Grene powdert [th]orogh..." Properly salted beef takes weeks to cure. Grene is used here in the sense of "fresh, raw, unseasoned, new". In order for this beef to be freshly salted through in one night, it must needs be cut from the bone and cut into very small pieces, so that the brine can come into contact with the maximum surface area. 19. Page 6. #6. To powder befe with in a ny[3]t. Lines 8 to13, "And kover [th]y pot with [th]o gresse done...And make hit fresshe unto [th]e mele" means to cover the brine- and flesh-packed pot with a sod of green turf, grass-side down. The salt will adhere to the grass and form a crust that can be knocked off and re-used. Done in this case is an obsolete form of down. Mele here means medley, another word for mixture. In this case, it means you may re-use the salt by boiling it to make more brine. 20. Page 7. #7. Furmente. Line 9 "Take know mylke" is a scribal error for "take cow's milk". 21. Page 7. #7. Furmente. Line 15. "Sugar candy" likely refers to chunks of loaf sugar. 22. Page 7. #8. Amydone. Line 9, Lycour is an error for lyour(e), a form of lear, meaning a thickening for sauces. 24. Page 9. #12. Mortrews de chare. Line 4, "Enbande [th]e porke, Syr, for [th]o nonys". "For [th]o nonys" is a nonsense phrase used to rhyme with the preceding line. Enbande is not in the C.O.E.D. The e-MED gives enbande as an alternate spelling of embainen, meaning to baste, soak, or steep (with this being the sole example). But this interpretation does not fit our context. We have taken the meat from the pot and removed the bones. Then we are to enbande it, hew it, and grind it. A similar word, bawde (or baude), occurs in Austin, "bawde it & leche it", and "take it vppe, and bawde hit, and hewe it" (TFCCB, pp. 18, 70). Austin suggests baude or bawde is likely a corruption from Fr. barder, meaning to cut in thin slices (TFCCB , p. 120). It is certainly easier to grind meat that has been cut into small pieces. Conjecture: Enbande = to cut in thin slices. 25. Page 9. #14. [Th]andon for wylde digges, swannus, and piggus. "[Th]andon" is a transcription error. The MS. says "Chandon" here and in the Table of Contents. In Line 9, the burned bread and blood are being used to darken the sauce. 25A. Page 11. #17. Charlet. According to Austin (TFCCB, p. 124), the name of this dish comes from the French words chair (meat) and laitée (with milk). 25B. Page 11. #18. For Charlet icoloured. Line 9, annes icomfetis anise in comfit, or candied anise seeds. Sass gives a recipe "ffor to make aneys in confite" from Harleian MS 2375 (fol. 75b, Sass, p. 125). In that recipe the anise seeds are to be coated with sugar syrup and stirred by hand until they are "os gret os a pese" (as great as a pea), and then they are cooled and coated with rice flour to prevent sticking. 26. Page 12. #20. Breuet de almonde. Line 3, "flowre [th]at is bake", see recipe #86 for baked flour that is to be used as a thickening. 27. Page 12. #20. Breuet de almonde. Line 8, smethe is employed here as a nonsense word to rhyme with the previous line's sethe, just as tyde in Line 9 is included to rhyme with besyde. 27A. Page 12. #22. Bucnade. Alternate spellings: Bokenade, Buknade, Bukkenade, Buknard. Hieatt & Butler (CoI, p. 175) note: "the root buk- (or buc-) of the title signifies...'veal dish'..."; most complete versions of this recipe do contain veal (or a substitute) and specify the seasonings. Our recipe is incomplete. NBoC contains two recipes for Bucnade, #2 and #197. The latter bears more resemblance to our version, and is likewise incomplete (s substituted for long s): [#197] To mak Buknard tak almond mylk and colour it with saffron and fers it with pouder then tak lard of pork well sodene and hewe it small and put them to the mylk and alay it with flour or with amydon and boile it well and florishe it withe pouder and colour it with sanders and serue it. 28. Page 13. #23. Rose. Line 7, "Coloure with alkenet, sawnder, or ellys with blode..." Since the name of the dish is Rose, and alkanet and saunders are both red food colorings, presumably we are to use blood to dye the dish red. If so, an option is to use the juices from rare-roasted meat (and not raw, unsanitary, blood). More likely, however, is that the blood called for here is a reference to the dried blood manufactured in the first recipe, "How somme mete schalle seme raw". 28A. Page 13. #24. Lede lardes [Leche lardes]. This dish can be found elsewhere named "Let lory", "lethe lory", "lete lardys", "lette lardes", etc., and comes from the Fr. for milk, lait. According to Austin, the original was likely let lardé, larded milk (TFCCB, p. 135). 29. Page 13. #24. Lede lardes [Leche lardes]. There is a step missing here. The gathered curds must be pressed, or drained and pressed before slicing. Chill the mixture before slicing. 30. Page 13. #24. Lede lardes [Leche lardes]. Line 10. Morris says to serve if forth "with spit" meaning on skewers -- somewhat difficult to do with a dish of pressed fried curds. The manuscript says "with frit", meaning perhaps some sort of pancake or fritter, possibly filled with meat, fruit, or cheese. (The downstroke of the "r" is too long, making it resemble a "p", hence the error.) The word frit comes from the French frit (pa. ppl. of frire, to fry). See Warner (p. 449, Servise on Fisshe Day), "and therwith daryolus, and leche-fryes, made of frit and friture." Leche-fryes means literally "sliced and fried"; the name was also used for fruit or cheese pies. 31. Page 14. #27. Sowpus dorre. Line 1, "Take almondes, bray hem, wryng hom up" -- these are instructions to make almond milk. See note #5. 32. Page 14. #27. Sowpus dorre. Line 6. Where our version says "Do in [th]is dysshes mete", NBoC (p. 107) has "pour it ouer the met". In these cases mete means meat in the sense of dish meat or spoon meat, and is a reference to the toasted bread, not to flesh. 33. Page 15. #31. Buttur of Almonde mylke. In Line 1, "thykke mylke of almondes clere", the word clere is a nonsense word employed to rhyme with the next line's fere. Almond milk, thick or thin, is an opaque liquid. 34. Page 15. #31. Buttur of Almonde mylke. Lines 6 & 7, "gar hit on hepe to renne; / In clothe [th]ou henge hit a myle way" means to gather the mixture together in a cheesecloth to curdle. Then you tie the ends of the cloth together and suspend the mixture over a bowl so that the excess liquid can drip away. "A myle way" is the length of time you are to allow it to drip, i.e. the time it takes to walk a mile = 20 minutes at 3 miles per hour (Eng. Dial. Soc. #3, Satchell's glossary). 35. Page 16. #32. Ryse. Line 5, "Fors hit with fryude almondes gode", Fors = farce = to stuff with; to cram full of, or to season or spice. In this case, it means we are to stick the rice pottage full of fried almonds as a garnish. 36. Page 16. #34. For to make a rape. Line 3, "Sethe [th]enne o[th]er raysins grete". The text says "seethe then", but in this context it should be read "seethe them [the currants] or great raisins". 37. Page 16. #34. For to make a rape. Line 5. Obviously there is something missing in this recipe. The "hom" cannot refer to the raisin/wine mixture since there is nothing listed here to bind the mixture to a spit. There are many extant recipes for rape or rapeye, all of which have little in common with each other -- some are baked tarts, others fried dumplings, and some are fruit pottage, with or without meat or fish. It is likely that the missing "hom" are fish, and that we are to skewer them, roast them a little, then pound them, mix them with the fruit/wine mixture and spices, and then boil and serve. (See TFCCB, p. 30, Rapeye.) 38. Page 17. #35. Mylke rostyd. Lines 5 - 6 instruct us to strain the mixture through a cloth to separate the curds from the liquid. The curds are pressed, the liquid is discarded. 39. Page 17. # 36. For to make a potage of welkes. Line 7, the MS. says cow, not clow. The semicolon after fyre in Line 6 was added in error by Morris. We are to boil the chopped and pounded whelks in almond milk or cow's milk. 39A. Page 18. #38. Sauge Seynes. This recipe is very similar to the late 13th century recipe for Saugee found in B.L. Additional 32085 (Hieatt & Jones, p. 863, #3), and to the recipe for "Sawge" in Rawlinson D 1222 (CoI, p. 155). Compare this also with the recipes for Sauge and Sauoge in TFCCB (pp. 28, 41). "To mak saige synes" in NBoC (p. 110) substitutes swan's feet for the pig's trotters found in our recipe. The word synes in NBoC (perhaps corrupted to seynes in our recipe?), may come from the O. Fr. word for swan, cine. Our version, as in these last two, neglects to add chopped egg whites to the sauce. 40. Page18. #39. For to make a compost. A compost or compote is a stew compounded out of many ingredients. (It can also mean pickled or preserved fruit, but not in this instance.) 41. Page 18. #39. For to make a compost. Line 1, "and hew hom for [th]o seke". This must be another dialectical spelling. Morris glosses seke as soak, and certainly such a spicy dish would not be good for one who was sick! A soak, used as a noun, is the liquid or vat in which something is steeped. 42. Page 19. #42. For to make rose dalmoyne. In the Table of Contents Morris mistakenly gives the name of this dish as "For to make rose de almayne"; the MS. says "For to make pese de Almayne". Rose is a transcription error, while de Almayne is a scribal error. The recipe in the MS. (fol. 37) is likewise mistakenly titled "ffor to make rose dalmoyne". The corresponding dish in NBoC (pp. 111-2) is correctly titled "pessen de Almondes", peas with almonds. 43. Page 20. #43. For a kolys. Line 2, the MS. says "wt wyn", with a bar over the "n", indicating a long "n" sound. Morris has rendered this "with wyne", but I have given it as "with labor". As in #51 and #102, the intended word is labor or work, from the A.S. word for labor, "win". This recipe also occurs in Diuersa Servicia (#11, CoI, p. 64), NBoC (p. 112) and TFCCB (pp. 10-11, Coleys.), where no wine is called for. 44. Page 20. #43. For a kolys. Line 5, "it" refers to the flesh. The flesh is pounded in a mortar, strained, and the resultant paste is added back to the broth. Although it is unclear here and in NBoC (p. 112), if you examine the TFCCB version (pp. 10-11), you can see that the bones are to be removed and also pounded, strained, and added to the broth. 45. Page 20-1. #45. Conyngus in cyne. Line 8, "fulle meke" is a likely nonsense phrase used to rhyme with "eke". The same recipe found in Forme of Cury calls for powder fort. 45A. Page 21. #48. Harus in abrotet. Called Harus in albrotetus in the Table of Contents, this recipe can also be found in NBoC (p. 113) as Haire in Albroturs, in FoC (p. 21) as Hares in talbotes, and in Douce MS. 257 as Haris in talbotays (CoI, pp. 63, 103). The version in FoC is nearly identical to ours in wording, but adds powder fort(a mixture of strong spices) with the vinegar and salt. 46. Page 21. #48. Harus in abrotet. Line 6, by kynde is a nonsense phrase. It is used four times in the document (#48, 58, 65, 70) to rhyme with grynde. It should not be construed to be a cookery instruction. 47. Page 22. #49. Harus in Perdoylyse. The name of this dish, given as "Hares in papdele" in FoC (CoI, p. 103, with alternate spellings padell and papade), changed to "Haires in pardolos" or perdolons by the time it was included in NBoC (pp. 21, 113). The FoC version predates ours by approximately 30 to 50 years. It omits the beaten eggs, and adds the instructions to sprinkle powder douce on the wafers before covering them with the sauce. (Note: A recipe for "Hares in Padell" given in Warner, #287 p. 428, is in fact a recipe for "Hares in Talbotes". Compare with CoI, p. 103, #25.) 48. Page 22. #51. Chekyns in browet. Line 3, "stope [th]y chekyns with wynne". Wynne, in this instance, is an obscure spelling of will, as in the phrase 'do it with a will'. See #112, For white pese after porray, where it is used in the negative -- wynnot, and #102 where it means labor. 49. Page 23. #52. Chekyns in Cawdel. Line 4, "powder gynger, abrayde" is a reference to ginger powder. Abrayde is redundant, and is likely used simply to provide a rhyme for the previous line's forsayde. 50. Page 23. #52. Chekyns in Cawdel. This recipe is also found in FoC (CoI, p. 105, #35) and in NBoC (pp. 114-5), neither call for rue. Ours more closely follows the FoC version. On Line 5 where ours says "And sugur, and rew", FoC says "and sugar ynowh". "And rew" is clearly spelled out in our manuscript, but could easily be a scribal error. 51. Page 23. #52. Chekyns in Cawdel. Line 5, "safron clere". Clear, in this context, means clean, bright, having pure color, shining; but was probably used simply to rhyme with the next line's fyre. 52. Page 23. #52. Chekyns in Cawdel. Line 7, "with owtyn boylyng". The sauce is to be thickened with raw egg yolks. This must be done slowly over low heat, since boiling would cause the yolks to clot, resulting in a lumpy sauce. 53. Page 23. #54. Roo in a Sewe. This recipe contains an odd number of lines, to the effect that the last line has no rhyme. The corresponding recipe in NBoC (p. 115) also calls for pepper, ginger, and cloves. Our forgotten line should probably have been "With peper gynger and cloves hit fors". There was no space set aside in the MS. for the additional line. 54. Page 24. #55. Hennes in gravé. Line 4, "Grynd hit togeder with hennes [th]o". This is not an isolated example of the cooked hens being ground to crumbs or paste; see also #11 Viande de Cipur, #21 Blonk desore, and #43 For a kolys. 55. Page 24. #56. Capons in Covisye. Morris lists this in the Table of Contents as "Capons in covuse"; the MS. says "Capons in counse". In the text, the MS. says "Capons in conisye". 56. Page 24. #57. Hennes in gauncel. Line 3, "Blonde hit with mylke". Blonde is a transcription error. The MS. says blende, meaning to mix. (This recipe is almost identical to Hennys in Gauncelye, TFCCB, p. 23.) See also our #124 For a tansy cake, where the word is spelled blynde. 56A. Page 24. #57. Hennes in gauncel. Line 5, "[Th]y henne and [3]olkes of eyren imelle". Imelle is a form of the verb mell, meaning to mix. 57. Page 25. #60. For tenchis in gravé. Line 1, "and after hom brede". Brede can mean bread, but it has many other meanings, including to roast, broil, or toast, to spread out or extend, and to cover. In this case, we have parboiled the tenches, and must spread them out and roast them on a griddle in order to finish the cooking. 58. Page 25. #60. For tenchis in gravé. Line 4, the MS. says "Wt tenchis broth [th]ou peper ht [th]enne". 59. Page 25. #61. Chawdewyne de boyce. (From Fr. bois = woods, or A.N. boys = a wood.) This poetically named recipe, literally "entrails of the woods", is a dish of fried nuts boiled in almond milk and spices, garnished with yellow-colored fried nuts. The mention of meat in Line 9 of the recipe means the dish of nuts, and should not be construed to mean 'flesh'. 60. Page 26. #62. Capons in Cassolyce. The MS. gives the name as "Capone in cassoloyte". Cassoloyte may come from Fr. cassole (dim. cassolette), meaning a box, coffin, or case. This recipe (which is really two recipes in one) also appears in Douce MS. 257, "For to make capons in casselys" (FoC, p. 99, or CoI, p. 67). See also "To mak two capons of one" and "The capon body " (NBoC, p. 36), and "Farced Chickens" (Power, p. 309). 61. Page 26. #62. Capons in Cassolyce. Line 3, "blaw hym with penne", refers to a method of either loosening the skin of an animal, or skinning it completely by inserting a straw or hollow quill pen between the flesh and the skin, and inflating the animal like a balloon. The air ruptures the interior membrane, thereby loosening the skin and making it easier to remove. 62. Page 26. #62. Capons in Cassolyce. Line 10 begins instructions for cooking the skinned bird. First we are to lard it and roast it. Then, when it is almost done, we are to baste it with colored batter made of almond milk, amidon, and saffron. 63. Page 26. #62. Capons in Cassolyce. Line 13, "serve hit at fyre rostande", means to apply the batter to the roast while it is roasting. 64. Page 27. #65. Pur verde sawce. Line 1, Peletre, or Pellitory, is a name given to several different plants. According to the O.E.D, the peletre called for in Arundel MS. 334's Vert Sause is Wild Thyme (Thymus serpyllum), also known as Pella mountaine. Garden Thyme, T. vulgaris, is also mentioned as an option. Wild Thyme is likely what is called for here. 64A. Page 28. #67. Sawce for vele and venysone. Line 2, "with brothe of venegur". Brothe in this instance does not refer the cooking liquid of the meat; it refers to the vinegar. Brothe was sometimes used more generally to mean any liquid that was boiled, brewed or cooked, melted snow, sea-water, etc. 65. Page 28. #69. Sawce best for capons rostyd. FoC (p. 64, Sawse Noyre for Capons yrosted) calls for "greyns de Parys" instead of "Pare gynger", and TFCCB (p. 110, "Black sauce for capouns y-rostyde") says "parysgingere". In both cases the sauce is not strained. 66. Page 28. #69. Sawce best for capons rostyd. Line 7, "boyle hit in sy[3]t". The word sy[3]t usually means sight, and also has an obscure meaning of a sieve or strainer; but I believe "sy[3]t" is included here simply to rhyme with the next line's "my[g]t". 67. Page 29. #72. Sawce for swannus. Line 6, "[th]at so[th]un is lede". The word lede is also found in the Boke of Curtasye (Furnivall, p. 301), line 78: "In [th]i dysche yf [th]ou wete [th]y brede, Loke [th]er-of [th]at no[3]t be lede", where it means left behind. We are to use the boiled blood and breadcrumbs to thicken the sauce. 68. Page 29. #73. [Sawce] For cranys and herons. Line 2. "At on bare mot" is glossed by Morris as "at one single blast of the horn". A mot or mote is a note played on a horn or bugle. This may be a reference to a horn blast announcing the dish as it is brought into the hall. 69. Page 30. #76. Sawce camelyne, kervelettes and o[th]er thyngus. The MS. says "kerneletes". This is probably a diminutive form of kernel, meaning seed. The recipe has nothing to do with carving, caravels (ships), or crenellations (all words related to the word kerve), nor does it have anything to do with caraway seeds (kerua). However, nuts are called for in the recipe. 70. Page 31. #80. Pigges in sawce. Line 5, "with owtene rewarde" may be a nonsense phrase to rhyme with "harde" (meaning simply without regard or without reward), or it could mean without bread, since the sauce is to be thickened with crumbled egg yolks. The Boke of Curtasye (Line 421), reads "More brede, [th]at calde is a rewarde". 71. Page 31. #80. Pigges in sawce. Line 9. The MS. reads "a bofe colde". Morris apparently thought this to be an error and corrected it to " a bofe tolde". This recipe also appears in FoC (p. 23, Pygge in sawse Sawge), and in TFCCB (p. 72, Pigge or chiken in Sauge). Neither give directions for heating the sauce, nor do they say at what temperature it is to be served. Since this recipe makes sense either way, I leave it to you to decide which is correct. 72. Page 32. #82. Gose in a Hogge pot. Line 8, "for [th]o hyre", perhaps meaning "for all you're worth"? This is likely a nonsense phrase inserted to rhyme with the previous line. 73. Page 33. #83. To save venysone fresshe over [th]e [3]er. The flesh is being preserved raw by immersion in honey. I do not recommend you try this recipe as it is written. If you must try it, please parboil the meat and pasteurize the honey first. This recipe contains an odd number of lines, so that the last line "In cofer, or huche or seler merke" is left without a rhyme. 74. Page 33. #84. For to save venysone fro restyng. This recipe can also be found in Douce MS. 257 (CoI, p. 73, #57), where the instructions are more complete. Once we have placed the meat in the soller, we wash it in clean water and leave it soaking in clean water for half a day. Then we are to take it up and lay it on hurdles to dry. (This is a much more sanitary option than in our version, where we are instructed to lay the meat on the floor.) After it has dried, we are to soak the meat in a brine "so salt als water of [th]e see and moche more" for three days and nights, then we dry it, rub it with dry salt, and pack it tightly in barrels. The barrels are then covered against sun and air. 75. Page 34. #85. To keep herb[3] over [th]e wyntur. Line 2, "Wele stondande withouten stine" probably means that the coffin dough should be strong enough to support its own weight without a baking tin. In FoC, "Connyng in clere broth" (p. 37), Pegge reads "do the flessh [th]erwith in a Possynet and styne it", with "styne" glossed as possibly meaning "to cover". However, Hieatt & Butler (CoI, p. 113), read the word as "styue" (stew) not "styne". 76. Page 34. #86. For lyoure best is a recipe for flour that is baked in a coffin crust and used as a thickening for other dishes. The baked flour is grainy in texture and may become as hard as chalk; it needs to be rubbed through a sieve in order to use it. The baking process also destroys the gluten in the flour. 77. Page 35. #87. For [th]e crane. Enarme = to lard or wrap with bacon. These steps are out of sequence. The bird should first be plucked and gutted, and then larded or wrapped with bacon and roasted. 78. Page 35. #87. For [th]e crane. Line 5, the MS. says "About the broth", but this is a scribal error for "broch". 79. Page 35. #88. For heroun rostyd. Line 3, "Under [th]e lyft wyng [th]o neck bone steke". Steke = steek, northern dialect (from O.H.G. stechan, O.E. stecan) for to pierce, to stab, or to transfix. After the bird is killed, the neck bone is removed, leaving the head attached to the body by the long throat skin. The skin is wound around the spit, and the sharp bill is thrust through the collar-bone to secure the bird. In some recipes (but not this one), the leg bones are also removed, and the legs are treated in similar fashion. 80. Page 35. #89. For wodcock, sny[3]t and curlue. Line 10, "[Th]at a kny[3]t is called for gentloré". Gentloré = gentlehood, gentleship, the quality of being a gentleman, the character associated with being of gentle birth. Note: The MS. does not say "and great", it says "an egret". 81. Page 36. #90. For pygges farsyd. Line 9, enoynt can mean anoint, (to smear with oil or to moisten with any substance), but in this case as Morris suggests, it is a misspelling of enioynt, meaning joined together. The recipe, at this point, is discussing the presentation of the pigs, not how they are to be cooked. 81A. Page 37. #92. For bours. The name of this dish can be found in other sources, but undoubtedly this is another instance, as in the case of rapeye, where a number of widely differing dishes share a common name. Our recipe is to make salt pork or salt goose that can be reconstituted with ale. 81B. Page 37. #92. For bours. Line 5, "Fro Martyn messe to gode tyde evyne". Martinmas is November 11th. Gode means good in the sense of holy. Good Tide Eve refers either to Christmas Eve or to Shrove Tuesday. Since salt pork keeps a long time, much longer than the month between Martinmas and Christmas, this is probably referring to Shrovetide. 81C. Page 37. #93. For powme dorrys. To make green food coloring from green herbs such as parsley or spinach, chop or pound the raw herbs to pulp (or use a blender). Place the mass of pulp in a cheesecloth and squeeze to extract the juice. Place the juice in a saucepan and discard the pulp. Gently heat the strained juice over low heat. The liquid will separate into two layers. Strain off the clear liquid through a filter paper and keep the green solid that remains. Use this to color your batter green. Make red batter using red sandalwood powder. 82. Page 37. #94. Hastelets on fysshe day. Hastelets or Haslets are roasted meats, particularly pig's entrails. Because this is a fish day dish, fruits and nuts encased in batter are being substituted. The instructions to first thread the fruits and nuts on a string are missing here, as they are in Forme of Cury MS. A (but not in 3 other extant copies of FoC. See CoI, p. 142, #195 and note, and TFCCB, p. 97, "Trayne roste".) 82A Page 38. #95. For lamprays bakun. Line 11, "In myddes [th]o lydde an tuel [th]ou make". A tuel, or tewel is an opening or vent in the piecrust lid that allows steam to escape. In raised-crust pies like this, these openings frequently included a strip of pastry, twisted and pinched to form a pipe or funnel-cone shape. If the pie were to be kept for storage, as many raised-crust pies were, strong gelatin-rich broth and liquid fat would be poured through the tewel into the cooked pie, completely covering the filling and excluding the air that would cause spoilage. In this instance, we are instructed to bake the lamprey with onions, spices, wine, and dates. Then we remove the pie from the oven, add more wine, and seal the tewel with a piece of pastry. Finally we return the pie to the oven, presumably until this patch of pastry is baked, and then the pie is served. 83. Page 38. #96. For darials. Line 4, "with mylde mode" is a nonsense phrase used to rhyme with the preceding line. 84. Page 38. #96. For darials. Darials or darioles are custard tarts. Lines 12-14 should be read "Pour in thy batter with a dish. Garnish it with blanched almonds". Dariole crusts were typically baked blind to crisp them. The crusts were filled, while still baking in the oven, using a bowl fastened to the end of a long-handled baker's peel. 85. Page 39. #99. For risshens. Line 4, "As tome as belle hit wille hit make" refers to the action of the yeast solution on the dough. (The dough is being very loosely described here.) Morris glosses tome as "light, empty". 86. Page 39. #99. For risshens. Line 5, "Lay hit in a roller as sparlyng fysshe" -- i.e., roll up the mixture in the dough as is done with smelts. Risshens or rissoles are meat, fish, or fruit encased in dough or batter and fried. As far as I have been able to determine, this is the sole example of the noun "roller" being used to mean a wrapper made of dough. (And for the curious, yes, "roller" is very clearly spelled out in the manuscript.) 87 Page 40. #101. Crustate of flesshe. In Lines 6 and 13, Morris reads the word as "trap" (a pastry crust). However, the manuscript does not say "trap", it says "crap". This may simply be a scribal error for "trap"; "t" and "c" are written similarly . But since the error is repeated twice, and only on this word, it seems too much of a coincidence. In dialect, the word "crap" was used (among other things) to mean the sweepings of dust, dirt, and grain trodden underfoot in a barn or mill. I prefer to believe that this is a subtle but intentional jab at the pastry cook. 88. Page 40. #102. Loysyns. This recipe for lozenges with cheese may also be found in FoC, which specifies that the boiled lozenges are to be layered in the dish with the cheese and spice in two or three layers, somewhat like a modern lasagne. (FoC, p. 30, "Loseyns") 89. Page 40. #102. Loysyns. Line 3, "[th]er of [th]y fele [th]ou make" Fele, and fole (see #101) are both spelling variations of foil, meaning a thin layer or leaf. In medieval cookery the word meant a sheet of dough or pastry. 90. Page 40. #102. Loysyns. Line 6 says "kast [th]erin broth", but should say cast them in broth, since we are boiling the noodles in the broth. Also, Morris writes "make rewarde" (make an extra dish), but the MS. says "take rewarde", meaning "take heed". 91. Page 40. #102. Loysyns. There is no wine in this recipe; the word wynne in Line 10 comes from the A.S. word for labor, win, and anticipates the sentiment in the last line. 92. Page 41. #103. Tartlotes. In Lines 8 and 9 the MS. says, "Koruen in the myddes two loyseyns apayr / Set ht wt fryed almondes sere". These are directions for garnishing the tarts: cut two lozenges (diamond-shapes) in the crust, and stick fried almonds on the top. Morris transcribed apayr as two words, thereby altering the meaning. Apayr means to satisfy, to please. 93. Page 41. #105. Chewetes on flesshe daye. Line 12 ends with mete, which does not fill the rhyme with spake. This is a scribal omission. Morris corrected this by inserting "ibake". 94. Page 42. #106. Of Petecure, from O. Fr. petit keuerie, meaning small cookery, or cookery on a small scale. I have counted this as a recipe, since one may follow it as such; but others may argue it is merely a laundry list of potherbs. 95. Page 42. #106. Of
Petecure.
Lines 19 to 23
96. Page 42. #107. For stondand fygnade. The last line ends "be fore +"; Morris expanded this to "before gode menne." 97. Page 44. #110. For blaunchyd porray. Line 2, the MS. says "heke hedes", a scribal error. 98. Page 45. #112. For white pese after porray. This is one recipe with a variation for fish days and another for flesh days. Lines 1 to 4 serve for both variations. Lines 5 to 8 are directions for service on a fish day. Lines 9 to 16 continue the instructions from Line 4, and are directions for service on a flesh day. 99. Page 45. #112. For white pese after porray. Line 5, grappays are sturgeon, whale, or other royal fish. Le Menagier mentions boiled strips of whale meat (Craspois/Graspois) being used in place of bacon during Lent (Power, pp. 252, 328). 100. Page 46. #114. For kole. Lines 3, 5, 10, 12, wortis can mean herbs, vegetables, pot-herbs, or any member of the cabbage family. Since the name of the dish is literally "for cole", wortis is given here as meaning coleworts. Colewort is a general name for members of the cabbage family. 101. Page 46. #114. For kole. Line 7, "[3]if [th]ou have salt flesshe sethand I wot". Sethand is not in the O.E.D, Mayhew & Skeat, Britten, Wright, or Eng. Dial. Soc. #1. The e-MED gives it as a participle form of to seethe (with this being the sole example for this spelling), which would give us "if you have salted flesh seething...take a fresh piece out of the pot and seethe it by itself". In the manuscript, the word seth or sethe is written 75 times. In each case the "t" touches or crosses the "h", a ligature clearly indicating a "th" sound. However, in the word sethand, the "t" and the "h" are not touching, and there is enough space between them to suggest that the scribe was writing two separate words: set and hand. From context, sethand, or set hand, would appear to mean on hand or available. Nevertheless, from a practical standpoint it makes no difference whether sethand is a form of "to seethe" or another of the author's creations. Since salted flesh must be slowly reconstituted (by simmering at a very low temperature or by soaking) before it can be used, the meat is undergoing or has undergone this re-hydration process. 102. Page 46. #115. For mustul bre. Lines 1 to 5 mean to boil the mussels in water and reserve some of the broth. Mix this broth with bread; this serves as a thickening. The remainder of the broth you must keep also, but throw away the grounds that have settled out because they contain sand. 103. Page 47. #117. For gruel of fors. The MS. says "Wt outenne grotes", meaning "without groats", but this is surely an error. Morris corrects it to "with otene grotes". 104. Page 47. #118. For Ioutes. Ioutes is a dish of pot-herbs or vegetables that can be a soup or a pottage. This particular Ioutes recipe is medicinal in nature; it is intended as a spring tonic to clean out one's system, and may cause diahrrea. (You may substitute spinach for the medicinal herbs in this recipe.) 105. Page 47. #118. For Ioutes. In his notes for Line 1, Morris confuses borage (Borago officinalis) with lovage (Levisticum officinale); borage is being called for here. 106. Page 47. #118. For Ioutes. Lines 2 to 6, plum tree leaves were used medicinally, boiled in wine, as a gargle to cure swellings of the gums, throat, and tonsils, and to dry phlegm. Red nettle tops "eaten in the spring consume the phlegmatic superfluities in the body of man, that the coldness of winter hath left behind" (Culpepper, p. 204). Mallows (Malva species) loosen the bowels. Red briars are a type of rose, that were used medicinally as a purgative (among many other uses). Avens (Geum urbanum) is a common pot-herb that was used to cure obstructions of the liver and spleen, and to remove any clotted blood from the body. Nep, or catnip (Nepeta cataria) was used for colic, flatulence, and dysmenorrhea; it may bring on menstruation. Violet (Viola odorata) was used as a purgative. Prymrol ,or primerole, is most likely the primrose (Primula veris), although the name was applied to other plants, such as the cowslip. Lest can mean either last or least -- either fits in this context. Levus can mean leaves or petals, both were used in spring tonics. 107. Page 47. #118. For Ioutes. Lines 13-15, "Take sklyset,...eten with ioutes in fay". Sklyset are slices. Since Ioutes is a thick pottage and cannot be sliced, obviously the author was referring to something else that ought to be eaten with the ioutes. The recipe in TFCCB (pp. 5-6, #iij. Joutes) calls for a dish of boiled bacon to be served with the Joutes, and this is indeed a very good combination. 107A. Page 48. #119. For capons in erbis. The author begins instructions for stuffing the capons in Lines 1 and 2, and then interrupts himself. In Lines 3-8, we are being instructed to make "pudding of capon's neck", a dish common to many old cookery books of this era. Line 9 repeats and auments the instructions begun in Lines 1 and 2. 108. Page 48. #119. For capons in erbis. Line 12, "And wrythe itwen", wrythe = writhe, wring, twist. Itwen comes from the word for twin, and means to divide. So the phrase means to twist the herbs in half. We are being instructed to stuff the birds with the herbs and bacon prior to boiling. 109. Page 48. #119. For capons in erbis. Line 13, "With sklices of bacon, enbrawdet here". Enbawdet, without the "r" occurs in the previous recipe for ioutes, where it is also used of slices, presumably bacon slices. These are the only known examples of enbawdet / enbrawdet, making definition of the word somewhat difficult.
110. Page 48. #119. For capons in erbis. Line 16. Presuming the conclusion reached in the preceding note is correct, the cooked bacon is then removed from the cavity and laid next to the stuffed neck for service. 111. Page 49. #121. For honge cole. Hung cabbage is cabbage that has been harvested and hung up for storage. 112. Page 49. #121. For honge cole. Line 2, "I thrawe" -- thrawe, a form of to throw, has many meanings including to twist and to throw, none of which fit the context. Morris suggests thrawe is a scribal error for crawe, a spelling of crave -- a nonsense addition to fill the rhyme. I crawe also appears in the paragraph For a servise on flesshe day, p. 54. 112A. Page 49. #123 For comyne sewe. The name of this dish is "For cumin broth", from the Fr. comminée. (See Power, pp. 261-2.) This particular recipe omits the cumin, but others can be found that include it. 113. Page 50. #124. For a tansy cake. Tansy cakes (egg fritters with tansy) were eaten as spring tonics; in later years other bitter herbs were substituted for tansy. Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare, contains a toxic oil that may prove fatal if ingested in large quantites. Cake, in this instance, is a descriptive term for the egg fritter (round and flat), and is not a reference to a fancy bread or raised cake. (Note that the reference to this recipe in the C.O.E.D. under "cake" is incorrect; it should be cited for sb.3, not sb.1.c.) 113A. Page 50. #124.
For a tansy cake. Line 7. The MS. says "make take"; if this
is not a scribal error for "may take", then it is a dialectical usage that
I have been unable to find.
114. Page 50. #124. For a tansy cake. In Lines 8 to 9, "Geder hit... schalle", there is a step missing from these instructions, and consequently a rhyme is missing for Line 9. Line 10 should have been something analogous to 'And in the panne presse it doune'. The wooden platter is being used to press the gathered egg curds into a fritter. This is then fried brown and sliced. 115. Page 50. #125. For a froyse. There are a few steps missing in this recipe for Froyse out of Lentyn, or "Fritters out of Lent". The cooked chopped meat should be added to the beaten eggs in the pan. Then the mixture should be stirred, and the lumps gathered together and pressed with a plate to form a fritter, as in the preceding recipe. 116. Page 51. #128. For a cawdel. Lines 9-10, "[3]if [th]ou cast salt [ther]to, iwys / [Th]ou marres all", means if you add salt, you will ruin the dish. 117. Page 51. #128. For a cawdel. Line 15, "Storve myed wastel". (Note: The MS. says Storue.) The word storue also appears in the Boke of Curtasye (Furnivall p. 325, line 766), "[Th]e potage fyrst with brede y-coruyn / Couerys hom agayn lest [th]ey ben storuyn", where storuyn means to be spoiled by cold. (See also Hallam's essay in Eng. Dial. Soc. #2, pp. 12-15, where starve = to die of hunger or cold.) While spoiling by cold may affect a pottage, it makes little sense when applied to breadcrumbs. Rather, storue here means starve in the sense of to wither. Imagine pouring ale onto a fluffy pile of breadcrumbs -- they collapse in on themselves and appear to wither. This is a recipe for a caudle, a thickened beverage made with egg yolks and ale, that we are told not to let boil. [See the technique used in modern recipes for lemon curd.] "Storue myed wastel" comes in after we have carelessly let the caudle boil and the eggs have clotted. Now we have to fix it (waste not, want not!), so we are instructed to add breadcrumbs soaked in ale to thicken the mixture and make the egg clots less noticeable. Presumably, if this step is necessary, the resultant dish is eaten with a spoon as a pottage. 118. Page 52. #130. For wesels. Regarding the word wesels the C.O.E.D. merely says "meaning obscure". While there is an obvious resemblance between this word, wesels, and the word for weasel [wesel(e), wesell] (and if one uses a bit of imagination, this long thin batter-coated 'sausage' may resemble a weasel), there is a stronger possibility as to its meaning. Since we are stuffing a capon's throat skin with the mixture, it is possible that the name comes not from weasel, but from wesand, meaning windpipe, throat, or gullet. (Alternate spellings include wezzon and wezzand.) This is supported by a note in Furnivall, (II, p. 42) "Omasus, in tripa vel ventriculus qui continet alia viscera, a trype, or a podynge, or a wesaunt, or hagges." 119. Page 52. #131. For hagese. The instruction typical of a haggis, that is, stuffing the mixture into a sheep's stomach, appears to be missing from this recipe, but this is only because Morris give "[th]o bowel" whereas the MS. says "[thoru] bowel". 120. Page 52. #131. For hagese. Line 3, "On [th]e turbilen made, and boyled wele". Morris suggests that turbilen comes from the French tourbillon, meaning a whirlpool or vortex. The e-MED also cites turbeillun, a variation of O.Fr. torbillon (whirlwind), and suggests turbilen means broth or stock. If so, why not simply say "broth" or "albrotet" (to fill the meter)? I think it more likely that turbilen is a poetic reference to the contents of the pot that are being stirred. 121. Page 52. #131. For hagese. Line 10, "In wyntur tyme when erbs ben gode". This should say "In winter time when fresh herbs are not available," since the next line tells us to take dried powdered herbs. 122. Page 53. #132. For seke menne. Line 1, aleberry or ale broth is a type of warm caudle. This is four recipes in one: ale broth; water gruel; milksops; and sugared sops. 123. Page 53. #133. For sethe ray. In Line 1, the MS. says "Take ote strey + dragh ht clene". Morris glosses strey as to strain, but this must surely be an error brought on by his addition of a comma between ote and strey. Draghe or dredge is a mixture of grains, such as oats and barley, that have been sown together in one field. The comma should come after draghe, making the sentence "Take oat straw and draghe, and clean it". The pan is to be lined with clean straw. Then water and salt are added, and the ray is placed in the pan and parboiled. The ray is then removed, and skinned, and the first cooking liquid and the straw are discarded. The ray is then cooked again with ale and salt, and is served cold with a pungent liver and garlic sauce. (Note that only the ray's "wings" are eaten.) This sauce, and the parboiling, serve to mask the ammonia flavor present in ray. Le Menagier has a recipe for this sauce under the heading of "Sauces Not Boiled": "Garlic Cameline for Skate. Bray ginger, garlic and crusts of white bread moistened with vinegar; and if you add liver thereto it will be better." (Power, p. 287.) 124. Page 54. For a servise on fysshe day is a menu: First Course: white peas, porray, white herring, red herring, mustard sauce, salt salmon, salt eel.White herring were fresh or salted herring. Red herring were herring preserved by smoking; the smoke gave them color. 125. Page 54. For a servise on fysshe day. The mention of covers in Lines 2, 3, and 5 refer to the practice of covering the serving dish with a lid. Stacks of these covered dishes could be wrapped round with a towel and carried into the hall. 126. Page 54. For a servise on fysshe day. Line 8, Fignade. This, and the mention in recipe #107 are the only two known uses of the word fignade. Fignade is a form of Figee, a thick fig pudding. 127. Page 54. For a servise on fysshe day. Line 16, sawce versance is another spelling of sauce vert, or green sauce, a common condiment. See our recipe #65 Pur verde sawce. 128. Page 54. For a servise on flesshe day is also a menu: First Course: pot-herbs, salt beef, capon in herbs. 129. Page 54. For a servise on flesshe day. In Line 5, "Fyrst take in selle, [th]an gose anon", the MS. says "iussell" not "in selle". I have given it as Iussell (a common dish), and not as seal, as Morris suggests. The presence of seal in this flesh day menu would be an anomaly. Seals were considered to be fish, or rather, amphibians, in medieval times, and where they occur in medieval menus they are listed with the fish, not the meat. Furnivall, for example, has five mentions of seal [sele, [3]ele], all of which occur in connection with fish dishes. By contrast, Wynkyn de Worde's Boke of Keruynge contains two flesh day menus that call for Iussell in the second course (Furnivall, pp. 275, 277). Iohn Russell's Boke of Nurture (Furnivall, p. 170), in his "A Fest for a franklen", has this rhyme, "[Th]erfore stuffe of household is behoveable, / Mortrowes or Iusselle are delectable / for [th]e second course by reson." (See #19 Iusselle.) 130. Page 54, For ano[th]er maner of service on flesshe day is another menu: First Course: great pies, frumenty with venison, roasted capon.Line 1, frumente, see recipe #7 Furmente. Line 11, daryels, see recipe #96 For darials; crustade, see recipe #98 For custanes. Line 12, pome-dorry, see recipe #93 For powme dorrys. For fritters, see recipe #100. 131. Page 54, For ano[th]er maner of service on flesshe day. In Line 13 the MS. reads "Thenne rosted mawlarde and tele [th]erto". Morris mistakenly transcribed tele as cele, changing the meaning from teal (a type of duck), to bliss. 132. Page 54, For ano[th]er maner of service on flesshe day. Line 16, be skylle, meaning by right, is another nonsense phrase added to rhyme with wylle. 133. Page 55. For a comyn rewle in cure. Line 2, "All hole futed fuylle in flud" is given by the e-MED as "All whole-footed fowl in flood", in other words, all waterfowl having webbed feet. 134. Page 55. For a comyn rewle in cure. Line 4. Although my copy of the manuscript is unclear in this spot, it is nevertheless apparent that the fourth word is not "savun", as Morris has stated. The first letter is either "s" or "f", and has a cross-bar. The last letters are "n<", with the final character written over the "n". Where this character occurs elsewhere in the manuscript, Morris and Furnivall have both given it as "er", making this word either "sauner" or "fauner". From context, the word may be a variant of "saune", an old form of "sans", meaning "without" or "with the exception of". The meaning of the passage as a whole is to take the greatest (heaviest), dishes first, with the exception of goose and drake. These we are to serve in the second course along with the bake-meats. The dainty dishes then come last in the third course. If we look at his third menu, this is precisely what he has done (small birds are counted among the dainty dishes). Copyright 2002, Cindy Renfrow.
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